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PUSHBUTTON SHIFT BOX 7-l7 scam ’g 5-PLACES ~ ‘. rm CASING Throttle Cable GOOD WORDS The throttle cable and switch box may be replaced without removing the shift box from the boat. If the only service to be performed is replacement of the cable, leave the shift box in place. 1- Remove the Phillips screws on the side plate of the shift box. Remove the front side cover. 2- Notice the screw and retainer at the forward end of the casing guide and just below the throttle lever. Remove the screw and retainer. Pull the throttle cable and casting guide free of the shift box. Take care not loose the trunnion caps, one on the top and another on the bottom. 3- Remove the screws from the end of the casing guide and then pull the throttle cable free. TAKE CARE not to lose the screws and sleeve from the end of the guide. Shift Switch Removal 4- Remove the four Phillips screws from the top of the shift box, and then lift off the shift box cover around the push buttons. 5- Pull upward and remove the three push buttons. New buttons are not supplied with replacement switches. Therefore, SAVE the THREE BUTTONS for installation with the new switch. 6- Pull the red, green, and blue wires from the bottom of the switch box. 7- Notice the two small Phillips screws on top of the switch box holding the switch to the retainer. Remove these two screws. RETAINER .. . g g 7-l 8 REMOTE CONTROLS 8- Work the switch out of the switch box. CLEANING AND INSPECTING Clean.the box halves thoroughly inside and out with solvent and blow them dry with compressed air. Apply a thin coat of engine oil on all metal parts. The three-position switch installed in the gear box cannot be repaired. Therefore, if a problem is isolated to the swtich, it must be replaced. Throttle Cable Lubrication If the throttle cable is not to be replac- ed, now is an excellent time to lubricate the inner wire. 9- To lubricate the inner wire, remove the casing guide from the cable at both ends. Attach an electric drill to one end of the wire. Momentarily turn the drill on and off to rotate the wire and at the same time allow lubricant to flow into the cable, as shown. ASSEMBLING Switch Installation 1- Position the switch box inside the shift box underneath the retainer and slider and secure it in place with the two Phillips screws. Check to be sure the two terminals on the bottom side of the switch are to- wards you. This will place the forward button closest to the throttle handle. 2- Install the two small Phillips screws into the top of the shift box. These two screws secure the switch box to the retain- er. 3- Connect the wires to the bottom of the switch. Connect the red wire to the POSITIVE terminal; the green to the NEU- TRAL terminal; and the blue wire to the REVERSE terminal. #- Slide the buttons down over the pro- trusions of ’the switch and seat them in place. Adjustment 5- Temporarily install the side plate, and then move the throttle hand forward until the boss mark on the bottom of the throttle hand aligns with the mark on the side of the shift box panel. 6— Remove the panel and depress the three buttons one at-a—time. If it is not possible to depress the buttons, loosen the two screws on the selector bracket. Move the bracket forward or aft until the buttons can be depressed. Tighten the screws to secure the bracket in the proper position. PUSHBUTTON SHIFT BOX 7-l9 ADJUSTING 7- Install the shift box cover and secure it in place with the four screws. CRITICAL WORDS If the throttle adjustment is not properly performed, the circuit to the starter sole- noid will be opened preventing the starter motor from cranking the engine. Adjust- ment is made by moving the throttle cable adjustment knob in the trunnion on the side of the engine. Check the end of the cable to determine if the temper has been removed. If the end has a bluish appearance, it has been heated at an earlier date and the temper removed. The temper MUST be removed to permit the holding screw to make a crimp in the wire to hold an adjustment. If the wire has not been tempered, heat the end, but not enough to melt the wire. 8- Feed the inner cable into the casing guide and align it with the hole in the sleeve. Tighten the two Allen screws in the sleeve until one screw makes a crimp in the wire. The screw must be tightened to this degree to prevent the wire from slipping during operation. Bring the other Allen screw up tight against the wire. 9- Install the cable and cable end into the shift box with the trunnion cap on the bottom side. Lower the cable trunnion re- tainer into the recess and at the same time install the end of the shift cable sleeve over 7-20 REMOTE CONTROLS the end of the protrusion. Install the other trunnion cap over the top of the cable retainer. Slide the retaining clip over the end of the guide. The guide slips over a pin and the retainer has a hole in the end. The retainer fits over the pin and holds the end of the throttle cable onto the pin. Install the side plate with the attaching Phillips screws. Start the engine and run it at 700 rpm. CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the en- gine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump. Now, adjust the slide yoke to allow the pushbuttons to be depressed at 700 rpm, but not at 750 rpm. If it is not possible to depress the buttons at 700 rpm, remove the side panel and loosen the two screws on the selector bracket. Move the bracket forward or aft until the buttons can be depressed. To adjust the friction knob under the shift box, turn the knob clockwise to increase friction and counterclockwise to decrease friction. Cable Adjustments See Chapter 8, Lower Unit, to properly adjust the shift Cable and to adjust the throttle cable. 7-7 SINGLE-LEVER REMOTE CONTROL SHIFT BOX Description This unit is a single throttle and gear shift lever shift box with a warmup lever on the side of the box. The unit has the ignition key switch, and choke built-in. Some models may have additional built-in features such as a motor overheat horn, a start-in neutral only switch, and an ignition ON light. The control cables connected between the motor and the remote control lever at the shift box open the throttle after the desired gear is engaged. A throttle friction adjustment is provided to permit the opera- tor to release his grip on the control lever without a change in engine speed. The warmup lever mounted on the side of the shift box opens the throttle enough to start the engine and to control the fast idle speed for warmup after the engine has star- ted. On models equipped with the start-in- neutral only switch the starting circuit is completed only when the control lever is in the NEUTRAL position. The switch opens the circuit when the control lever is in either FORWARD or REVERSE position making the ignition key switch inactive. SHIFT RANGE LBCKOUT HARM-UP LEVER FRI CT I 0" RUN ADJUSTMENT POSITION = SPEED RANGE—flwp. Single lever remote control shift box iatth key, choke, and "hot horn" incorporated. To start the engine, the control lever moved to the NEUTRAL position and the warmup lever to the START position. After engine has started and allowed to warm to normal operating temperature, the warmup lever should be moved to the RUN position. A lockout knob is installed under the control lever handle. This knob MUST be depressed to permit the control lever to move to the FORWARD or to the REVERSE position. The control lever handle must be moved approximately 450 of its total travel for complete shift movement in the lower uniOt. If the control handle is moved past the 450 point, the throttle is advanced and en— gine speed increases. A throttle friction adjustment knob installed on the front of the control box can be adjusted to permit the operator to release his grasp on the handle without the throttle "creeping" and thus changing engine speed. The friction knob should be adjusted only to the point to prevent the throttle from "creeping". TROUBLESHOOTING The following paragraphs provide a logi- cal sequence of tests, checks, and adjust— ments, designed to isolate and correct a problem in the shift box operation. The procedures and suggestions are key- ed by number to matching numbered THROTTLE AND SHIFT . 5101-: ARM ‘ “ Throttle and shift side lever. This linkage should be checked for corrosion and freedom of movement. SINGLE-LEVER REMOTE CONTROL 7-2l illustrations as an aid in performing the work. The single-lever remote control shift boxes are fairly simple in construction and operation. Seldom do they fail creating problems requiring service in addition to normal lubrication. Hard Shifting or Difficult Throttle Advance Checking Throttle Side Remove the throttle and shift control at the engine. Now, at the shift box, attempt to move the throttle or shift lever. If the lever moves smoothly, without difficulty, the problem is immediately isolated to the engine. The problem may be in the tower shaft between the connector of the throttle and the armature plate. The armature plate may be "frozen", unable to move properly. On the late model units, the "lever advance arm" located on the starboard side of the engine may be "frozen" and reouire disas— sembly and lubrication. If the problem with shifting is at the engine, the first place to check is the area where the shift lever extends through the exhaust housing. The bushing may be worn or corroded. If the bushing requires re— placement, the engine powerhead must be removed. Another cause of hard shifting is water entering the lower unit. In this case the lower unit must be disassembled, see Chapter 8. if hard shifting is still encountered at the shift box when the controls are discon- nected from the engine, one of two areas may be causing the problem: the cables may be corroded and require replacment; or, the teeth on the plastic shift lever assembly in the shift box may be worn or broken. This is a common area for problems. CLAMP SCRE‘.I CABLE CLAMP CABLE HIRE ‘. CASING GUIDE ANCHOR SCREW Cut-a-way View of the cable passing through the casing guide. Note the crimp made by the clamp screw. The anchor screw is brought up just tight, as described in the text. 7-22 REMOTE CONTROLS Unable to Obtain Full Shift Movement or Full Throttle Normally, this type of problem is the result of improper shift box installation. This area‘ includes connection of the shift and throttle cables in the shift box. If the stainless steel inner wire was not heated and the clamp did not hold the inner cable (wire), the wire could slip inside the sleeve and the cable would be shortened. There- fore, if it is not possible to obtain full shift or full throttle, the shift box must be re- moved, opened, and checked for proper in- stallation work. The inner wire could also slip at the engine end of the control, but problems at that end are very rare. Usually if improper installation work has been done at the engine end, the ability to shift at all is lost, or the throttle cannot be actuated. If the lower unit has previously been re- moved, the shift rod may not have been adjusted properly. DISASSEMBLING Throttle Cable and Shift Cable Preparation Tasks: Disconnect the leads at the battery terminals and disconnect the spark plug wires at the plugs, as a safety precaution to prevent possible personal in- jury during the work. A professional me- chanic can usually service the cables, including replacement, without removing the box from the side of the boat. However, the job is made much easier if the box is removed and laid on its side on the boat seat. 1- Use the proper size Allen wrench and remove the screw from the center of the throttle and shift handle. It is not necessary to remove the shift handle, however the work will progress easier if the handle is removed and out of the way. 2- Remove the three Phillips screws on the bottom, the side, or both ends of the panel on the lower section of the shift box. Observe inside the box and notice the at- taching screws securing the box to the side of the boat. Remove the screws and lay the shift box on the boat seat. 3- Lift the electrical cable and grommet up out of the slot at the rear of the shift box. Loosen the anchor screws on the end of the casing guides. On the back side of the shift box two holes are provided to permit inserting an Allen wrench to hold the underneath screw while the upper outside Allen screws are removed. After the screws Back side of the shift box showing the two access holes through which an Allen wrench may be passed to loosen the inner cable retaining screws. have been loosened, pull the shift cable out of the cable casing. 11- To remove the cables at the engine end: Remove the self-locking nuts securing the cables to the engine. Remove the clip on the trunnion. Slip the end of the cable out of the engine retainer, and then remove the cable from the boat. To remove the guide casings at the engine end: Loosen the Allen screws on both sides and pull the casing free. Throttle Cable Lubrication If the throttle cable is NOT to be replac- ed, now is an excellent time to lubricate the inner wire. 5- To lubricate the inner wire, remove the casing guide from the cable at both ends. Attach an electric drill to one end of the wire. Momentarily turn the drill on and off to rotate the wire and at the same time allow lubricant to flow into the cable, as shown. ASSEMBLING Shift or Throttle Cable Into Shift Box The following procedures are to be fol- lowed to install either the shift cable or the throttle cable. CRITICAL WORDS Check the end of the cable to determine if the temper has been removed. If the end has a bluish appearance, it has been heated at an earlier date and the temper removed. The temper MUST be removed to permit the holding screw to make a crimp in the wire CAS I NC THROTTLE CLEVI 5 BACK SIDE CLAMP SCREW SINGLE-LEVER REMOTE CONTROL 7-23 THROTTLE CABLE to hold an adjustment. If the wire has not been tempered, heat the end, but not enough to melt the wire. It is very easy to shear the wire by applying EXCESSIVE force when tightening the screw to make the crimp. Therefore, play it cool. Tighten the screw; make one more complete turn to make the crimp; call it good; and then bring the other screw up just tight against the wire. 1- Place the shift control handle in the NEUTRAL position and the warmup lever in the START position. Coat the cable sleeve with anti-corrosive lubricant, and then slide the casing guide over the cable end. Thread one screw into the control cable clamp. Insert the casing guide into the shift control clevis and align the hole in the casing guide with the hole in the clevis. Lubricate and insert control wire clamp in the clevis hole with the screw toward the back of the control lever. Align the wire holes in the clamp with wire holes in the casing guide. Feed the control wire through the clamp until the wire is flush to within 1/32" (0.8 mm) reces- sed with the end of the casing. Secure the " ' ' SHIFT HIRE 7 -24 REMOTE CONTROLS CASING GUIDE THROTTLE CLEVI S BACK SIDE CLAMP SCREW <:> cable wire in the casing guide. The control wire is held in place with two screws -— the clamp screw already in place and the anchor screw. The wire MUST be crimped as des- cribed in ”Critical Words" at the beginning of these Assembling procedures to hold the adjustment. This is accomplished by reach- ing through the access hole in the rear of the control box with a 3/32" Allen wrench and tightening the screw until it is up just snug against the wire. Now, tighten the screw ONLY one complete turn more to make the crimp. Install the second screw, from the front and bring it up just tight against the wire. The wire will now be held securely in the casing guide. SPECIAL NOTE The previous procedure is complete to install either the throttle or the shift cable. If both cables are to be replaced, the com- plete procedure must be followed again to install the second cable properly. I....:s ,( gtggp CASING GUIDE CONTROL HIRE HIRE ANCHOR cup SCREW Cut-a-way section of the throttle or shift cable connection at the shift box. Note the crimp in the wire made by the clamp screw. The anchor screw is brought up just tight as explained in the text. 2- Snap the nylon trunnion caps onto the cable trunnion, and then position the trun- nion in the remote control. If the cable has a spherical trunnion, use the anchor blocks included with ’the new cable instead of the nylon trunnion caps furnished with the re- mote control. The nylon caps may be dis- carded. 3- Insert the electric cable grommet in- to the remote control. #- ll/iount the shift control box in the boat and secure it in place with the attach— ing screws. Install the shift control handle. '7 TRUNION " HIRE «‘ HARNESS Back side of the shift box showing the two access holes through which an Allen wrench may be passed to tighten the inner cablgLretaining screws. ..§' 2;»; . r .1. & QI?‘ ,u>>(.y,§_ " ' '*'e. M». » 4%"1‘In2 Su$\>.}.'; " ' “haw-n, ' .zw ; WM . { s g » ,“ 5W1; ,xg‘w‘. '; hg’ lit 'xf'na; ’f'iil?,$ I%““* »;uty gig”; Z; by” 3.: ' (“x-‘3, a»! 'SI;H. 3‘" 3‘&,-',<. :5, “gm. :9 WWI“ n V 3*!‘5‘3‘ '- "may; y» '3“: J; ‘a “$533.! "‘fi" like“; *K; 0 IQ: a,’ £33, *" :3“ ”t, «ig’géa >5 ’kt 3' I my; I y 5.»; .f: ,§‘§7"‘”G "Viazp ? 3;}? '»' ‘3 fégggzfi ,, w. .. ‘ Earyi‘é A32§§§';, M cwswgcmsrsn 5&3”. gym-«5 v,» 33*,” (any?) ,5} gig, .§\;§t;§,z, :fi“)v} :it'iiifr in???" .w ', * v . a shah?» ’5 $333 “Ivar“. § M”: .X‘H‘a L at: t W I I 3Tz§w 3y? ‘ “'Hwfiagv . *a-y‘;‘ . o ’ d ’ r , , . Install the access cover with the throttle cable positioned in the machined recess in the cover and the nylon trunnion caps in place. Clamp the control cables to the boat along the run to the engine. Shift or Throttle Cable at the Engine 5- Check to be sure the shift control lever is in the NEUTRAL position and the warmup lever is in the RUN position. Insert the clamp in the casing guide. Start the Allen screws into the clamp. Work the casing guide down over the cable (shift or throttle cable), until the wire protrudes out into the inspection hole of the guide. CRITICAL WORD The flat side of the casing guide MUST face toward the engine. This flat side is necessary to allow the guide to move as the throttle or shift lever is operated. Tighten one of the Allen screws until it makes contact with the wire, and then give it ONLY one more complete turn to make the crimp in the wire. Tighten the other Allen screw just snug against the wire. CASING CLAMP GU'DE SCRE" INSPECTION CONTROL HOLE MIR§\\ Ilia 23? \ ? >RING ® 7-25 SINGLE-LEVER REMOTE CONTROL CABLE SPECIAL NOTE The previous procedure is complete to install either the throttle or the shift cable cable at the engine. If both cables are to be replaced, the complete procedure must be followed again to install the second cable properly. .. m 6- Place the shift or throttle cable onto the shift or throttle lever studs. Secure the cables in place with the washers and lock- nuts. 7- Move the throttle lever on the engine until the idle stop screw makes contact with the stop. Pull firmly on the throttle casing guide and trunnion nut to remove any back— lash in the cable run and at the remote control at the shift box. If this backlash is not removed, the engine may not return to a consistent idle speed. STOP 7-26 REMOTE CONTROLS 8- Adjust the trunnion adjustment nut on the throttle cable until the cable will slip into the trunnion. Install the throttle or shift cable into the trunnion and install the retaining cover over the top of the trunnion and tighten the screw in the center of the trunnion. SHIFT BOX REPAIR SAFETY WORD Always disconnect the electrical leads at the battery terminals to prevent possible personal injury during the work. 1- Remove the throttle and shift handle by first removing the Allen screw in the center of the handle. 2- Remove the three Phillips screws on the lower side of the shift box, and then remove the cover. 3- Remove the screws from the top of the shift box, and then the arm rest. Re- move the two screws from the back side of the shift box securing the upper panel to the outside of the shift box, and then lift off the panel. ll- Remove the screws from the inside of the shift box securing the shift box to the boat. Use an Allen wrench and working from the back side and another Allen wrench from the front side, remove the Allen screws in the control wire on the end of the casing guide° Remove these screws from the shift and the throttle wires. GOOD WORDS As the panel is lifted, notice how the arm and the mechanism for the throttle are mounted on one side of the panel. Notice the key switch, overheat horn, cam, and start-in-neutral switch installed on the other side of the panel. Also observe the spring and ball bearing under the plate installed under the shift cam. CA5 [HG THROTTLE GUIDE CLEV I 5 BACK SIDE CLAMP SCREW 5— Lift the cam assembly from the pan- el. TAKE CARE not to lose the spring and ball bearing installed under the plate. 6- Remove the countersunk screw, flat washer, shift lever, and bushing from the housing. Remove the screw and cover plate containing the spring and ball bearing on the right side of the shift box. CLEANING AND INSPECTING Disassemble and clean mechanical parts in solvent, and then blow them dry with compressed air. NEVER dip electrical parts in solvent. Check wiring and electrical parts for continuity wtih a test light or an ohnimeter. Faulty electrical parts MUST be replaced. Inspect mechanical parts for wear, cracks, or other damage. Questionable parts should be replaced to ensure satisfac- tory service. 3:3; ' DETENT if": “ “ BALL AND SPRING SINGLE-LEVER REMOTE CONTOL 7-27 Worn (left) and new (right) shift levers. Note the worn teeth indicating this lever is no longer fit for service. Pay special attention to the shift lever teeth. The teeth are made of a hard plastic material. \‘E’orn teeth will result in hard shifting. ASSEMBLING GOOD WORDS During the assembling work, take time to coat the friction areas of mechanical moving parts with OMC Multi-purpose grease. 1— Slide the bushing onto the shift lever post in the housing, and then install the lever with the countersunk side of the wash- er facing UP. Tighten the screw to the specifications given in the Appendix. Be- fore installing the shift lever, the detent spring and ball must be removed from the retainer. 2- Lower the shift lever down over the shift cam with the center tooth of the shift lever indexes with the center tooth on the cam. 3- Install the ball and detent spring, into the recess, and then install the cover over thespring. 7-28 REMOTE CONTROLS ASSEH3LY : \ka 6:5; 1}- Place the top cover on the inner shift box with the lever cam follower seating in the shift lever cam channel. Tighten the screws on the back side of the shift box. 5- Install the arm rest to the top of the shift box and secure it in place with the retaining screws. 6- Slide the throttle and shift cables into the shift box and attach the casing guides in the shift and throttle levers. Tighten the Allen screws from the rear and side of the box. If difficulty is encountered during installation of the cables, see the more detailed instructions under Shift Cable Installation earlier in this section. Install the shift box to the side of the boat. Check to be sure the cables are in their trunnions and the wiring harness is in the recess. Install the lower cover, and then install the shift handle and secure it with the Allen screw. Shift lever and shift cam illustrating how the teeth of each indexes with the teeth of the other. THROTTLE CLEVI 5 BACK ' SIDE CLAMP scam 7-8 CABLE END FITTING INSTALLATION AT THE ENGINE END FOR ALL SHIFT BOXES EXCEPT SINGLE LEVER REMOTE CONTROL GOOD WORDS The procedures outlined in this section apply to the installation of the cable end fitting at the engine for all shift box instal— lations. MORE GOOD WORDS The anchor on the engine, to which the trunnion is attached, has a "P" and an "S" stamped on the inside diameter or inside edge of the trunnion retainers. These let- ters identified PORT and STARBOARD. INSTALLATION Shift Cable End 1- Move the control lever at the shift control box to the NEUTRAL position. Slide the gear shift fitting onto the control wire. Check to be sure the inner wire passes completely through the small holes in the cable clamp. Clamp the anchor screws to prevent twisting the cable. The clamp and the anchor screws MUST be parallel to the trunnion on the gear shift cable. 2- Notice the flat and rounded areas of the casing guide. The flat edge MUST face TOWARD the engine. In this position, there is a flat area for the lever to ride during the shifting action. After the cable is in place in the casing guide, tighten the top screw until a definite crimp is made in the cable. If the screw is not tightened enough, the inner wire will slip during operation and the adjustment will be lost. CRITICAL WORDS Check the end of the cable to determine TENSION CLIP / Trunion cap and tension clip. The tension clip must be installed to hold the proper adjustment. CABLE END FITTING 7-29 CLAMP SCREInl CABLE WIRE ' CASING GUIDE \ ANCHOR SCREW LOCKING PLUG CABLE CLAMP /' '- KNURLED SH I FT LEVER LE ADJUSTING NUT if the temper has been removed. If the end has a bluish appearance, it has been heated at an earlier date and the temper removed. The temper MUST be removed to permit the holding screw to make a crimp in the wire to hold an adjustment. If the wire has not been tempered, heat the end, but not enough to melt the wire. Bring the second screw up tight against the wire. 3- Insert the shift cable control verti- cally into the trunnion bracket and turn the cable to a horizontal position, as indicated by the arrows in the accompanying illustra- tion. ADJUSTABLE " RETAINER GD 7-30 REMOTE CONTROLS ll— Attach the shift cable end to the shift lever on the engine by inserting the fitting into the shift control lever, and then pushing inward, and at the same time rotat- ing the fitting l/Z-turn. This action will lock the fitting in the shift lever. Throttle Cable End Installation 5- Install the throttle lock pin spring over the casing guide. Start the screws into the small cylinder, and then slide the cylinder down through the pin spring and into the casing guide. Notice how the cylinder has a hole. This hole should be positioned vertically with the casing to align with the hole in the' guide. Slide the casing guide down over the throttle cable and insert the end of the wire through the sleeve. Tighten the top screw until a defi- nite crimp is made in the wire. CRITICAL WORDS Check the end of the cable to determine if the temper has been removed. If the end has a bluish appearance, it has been heated at an earlier date and the temper removed. The temper MUST be removed to permit the holding screw to make a. crimp in the wire to hold an adjustment. If the screw is not tightened to this degree, the wire will slip during operation and the adjustment will be LONG CABLE CLAMP LONG CLAMP LUBRICATE BRASS SLEEVE BEFORE ASSEMBLY O-RING / SEAL CASING / GU'DE LONG ANCHOR SCREW 6) 3 1 1 3 1 5 3 ; I ' l l ! m m m t o . . . In“ TRUNNION lost. If the wire has not been tempered, heat the end, but not enough to melt the wire. Bring the bottom screw up tight against the wire. 6- Install the trunnion retainers to the engine, if necessary. Check to be sure the retainer with "P" stamped on the inside is installed on the PORT side of the engine and the retainer with the "5" installed on the STARBOARD side. Connect the trunnion cap to the trunnion retainer. This is accom- plished by holding the trunnion in a vertical position; inserting it into the retainer; and then turning it to the horizontal position, as shown. 7- Slide the guide over the pin onto the engine, and then snap the retainer clip over the end of the guide to lock it in place. Cable Adjustments See Chapter 8, Lower Unit, to properly adjust the shift cable and to adjust the throttle cable. ADJUSTABLE RETA l NER THROTTLE CABLE l i G) LOWER UNIT 8-1 DESCRIPTION The lower unit is considered as that part of the outboard below the exhaust housing. The unit contains the propeller shaft, the driven and pinion gears, the driveshaft from the powerhead and the water pump. On models equipped with shifting capabilities, the forward and reverse gears, together with the clutch, shift assembly, and related linkage, are all housed within the lower unit. The lower unit is removed by one of six methods depending on the model year and the engine horsepower. l- The lower unit does not have shifting capabilities, therefore, removal of the lower unit is not an involved procedure. 2- The lower unit has shifting capabili- ties. The upper end of the shift rod indexes into the shift handle gear and the lower end of the rod indexes into the gear in the lower unit. Lower unit used on the 2hpto4 hp engines. The shear pin is installed after the propeller is in place. J ‘29 Shift rod (left) and driveshaft (right) after the lower unit has been separated from the exhaust housing. The flat on the shift rod must face in the direction shown toward the starboard side when the unit is in forward gear. 3- The lower unit is lowered a couple inches and the shift connector removed. 11- A window in the exhaust housing is opened and the shift connector disconnect- ed. 5— A window in the lower unit is opened to disconnect the shift rod. 6- Green and blue shift wires are discon- nec ted on the port side of the engine. . l"; ! u? 66:5"1§:\ anr :3; Q, ..., z ' \9 It 9 - 52'? ’3; .. .. 1A: .5: '- ’%' D l SCONHECT ' \s“ Disconnecting the shift connector after the lower unit has been separated slightly from the exhaust housing. 8-2 LOWER UNIT 7- The shift rod is disconnected at the linkage under and to the rear of the bottom carburetor. The engine and model year is given in each section heading. Therefore, the Table of Contents may be used to determine which set of procedures to follow for the engine being serviced. CHAPTER COVERAGE Nine different lower units are covered in this chapter with separate sections for each, as indicated: Section 8-4 -— lower unit does not have shift capabilities. Section 8-5 -— lower unit has shift cap- ability but there is no shift disconnect, the upper end of the shift rod indexes into a part of the shift handle and the other end is splined to index into the gear. Sections 8-7 and 8-8 —— both lower units have a split lower cap and are very similar, except the type of bearings used differ. Therefore, separate procedures are requir- ed. Sections 8—9 and 8—10 -- both lower units have propeller exhaust and use a sliding clutch dog. A detent ball and spring are used to hold the unit in the neutral position. The shift mechanism on the 9.9 hp and 15 hp models is forward of the forward gear. On the 35 hp model, the shift mechanism is just aft of the reverse gear. Section 8-11 —— lower unit has propeller exhaust with electric shift. Two solenoids SHIFT D tscomsu Window removed from a lower unit to gain access to the shift connector, as explained in the text. The detailed drawing, upper left, illustrates the relationship of the bolt to the shift rod. The two wires on the port side of the engine which must be disconnected before the lower unit is removed. are used to affect the shift. One solenoid is used for neutral, and both solenoids are activated for the shift into reverse gear. Section 8-12-— lower unit has propeller exhaust and mechanical shift with a hydrau- lic assist pump. Section 8-13 -- lower unit has propeller exhaust and mechanical shift with a sliding clutch dog. Movement of the clutch dog is mechanical utilizing a shift cradle and shift lever. Each section is complete with detailed procedures. No troubleshooting directions are given for Sections 8-4 and 8-5. Section 8—6 contains detailed troubleshooting in— structions for the lower units covered in wua Shift rod extending up through the exhaust housing. The disconnection is made under the carburetor. Sections 8-7 and 8-8. The lower units covered in Sections 8-9, 8-10, 8-12, and 8- 13, each contain their own troubleshooting procedures. Check the Table of Contents and follow the procedures in the given section for the unit being serviced. Water Pump Water pump service work is by far the most common reason for removal of the lower unit. Each lower unit service section contains complete detailed procedures to rebuild the water pump. The instructions given to prepare for the water pump work must be performed as listed. However, once the pump is ready for installation, if no other work is to be performed on the lower unit, the reader may jump to the pump assembling procedures and proceed with in- stallation of the water pump. Each section is presented with complete detailed instructions for removal, disas- sembly, cleaning and inspecting, assembling, adjusting, and installation of only one type unit. ILLUSTRATIONS Because this chapter covers such a wide range of models over an extended period of time, the illustrations included with the Typical water pump installation on the 4.5 hp and 7.5 hp engine. PROPELLER SERVICE 8-3 procedural steps are those of the most pop- ular lower units. In some cases, the unit being serviced may not appear to be identi- cal with the unit illustrated. However, the step-by—step work sequence will be valid in all cases. If there is a special procedure for a unique lower unit, the differences will be clearly indicated in the step. SPECIAL WORDS All threaded parts are right—hand unless otherwise indicated. If there is any water in the lower unit or metal particles are discovered in the gear lubricant, the lower unit should be com- pletely disassembled, cleaned, and inspect- ed. Actually, problems in the lower unit can be classified into three broad areas: 1— Lack of proper lubrication in the low- er unit. Most often this is caused by failure of the operator to check the gear oil level frequently and to add lubricant when requir- ed. 2- A faulty seal allowing water to enter the lower unit. Water allowed to remain in the lower unit over a period of non-use time will separate from the oil and can be des- tructive. 3- Excessive clutch dog and clutch ear wear on the forward and reverse gears. This condition is caused by excessive wear in the bellcrank under the powerhead. A worn bellcrank will result in sloppy shifting of the lower unit and cause the clutch components to wear and develop shifting problems. Im- proper shifting techniques at the shift box will also result in excessive wear to the clutch dog and clutch ears of the forward and reverse gears. Time will also take its toll. Continued service over a long period of time will cause parts to wear and require replacement. 8-2 PROPELLER SERVICE PROPELLER WITH SHEAR PIN REMOVAL If the unit being serviced has the shear pin located between the propeller nut and the propeller, the propeller nut should be removed and the shear pin checked. To remove the propeller, first pull the cotter key, and then remove the propeller nut, shear pin, and washer. Because the shear pin is not a tight fit, the propeller is 8-4 LOWER UNIT nut on a typical lower unit. In this case, the shear pin is installed behind the propeller nut. able to move on the pin and cause burrs on the hole. The propeller may be difficult to remove because of these burrs. To over— come this problem, the propeller hub has two grooves running the full length of the hub. Hold the shaft from turning, and then rotate the propeller 1/4 turn to position the grooves over the drive pin holes. The pro- peller can then be pulled straight off the shaft. After the propeller has been remov- ed, file the drive pin holes on both sides of the shaft to remove the burrs. If the propeller is the type with the shear pin installed next to the gearcase head, first remove the cotter key, then the propeller nut. Next, slide the propeller free of the shaft. -, canmms Propeller with the two grooves through the center to assist in removal from the shaft. T I I C I I I I I Y E ‘- quu: “.1~3luu|u a O o Cross-section drawing of the lower unit showing route of the exhaust gases with the unit in forward gear (top), and in reverse gear (bottom). EXHAUST PROPELLER Propellers with the exhaust passing through the hub MUST be removed more frequently than the standard propeller. Re- moval after each weekend use or outing is not considered excessive. These propellers do not have a shear pin. The shaft and propeller have splines which MUST be coat— ed with an anti-corrosion lubricant prior to installation as an aid to removal the next time the propeller is pulled. Even with the lubricant applied to the shaft splines, the Propeller with exhaust hub. clearly visible. The propeller with the exhaust hub is more expensive than the standard propeller and therefore, the cost of rebuilding the unit, if the hub is damaged, is justified. A replaceable diffuser ring on the back- side of the propeller disperses the exhaust away from the propeller blades as the boat moves through the water. If the ring be— comes broken or damaged "ventilation" would be created pulling the exhaust gases back into the negative pressure area behind the propeller. This condition would create considerable air bubbles and reduce the ef- fectiveness of the propeller. PROPELLER WITH EXHAUST — REMOVAL First, disconnect the high tension leads to the spark plugs to prevent accidental engine start. Next, pull the cotter pin from the propeller nut. Wedge a piece of wood between one of the propeller blades and the cavitation plate to prevent the propeller from rotating. Back off the castellated propeller nut and remove the splined wash- er. Pull the propeller straight off the shaft. It may be necessary to carefully tap on the front side of the propeller with a soft headed mallet to jar it loose. Remove the thrust washer from the propeller shaft. "Frozen" Propeller If the propeller appears to be "frozen" to the shaft, see Section 8-14 removal instructions. for special The thrust washer ‘ v . 'l 3- V .s’ie’fi-k-‘lflé'... ~ \.2.I5\:‘3¢~N _, n {Meg Propeller exhaust arrangement showing the thrust washer, propeller, splined washer, and propeller nut. PROPELLER INSTALLATION 8-5 does not have to be removed unless it ap- pears damaged. PROPELLER INSTALLATION WITH SHEAR PIN A FEW GOOD WORDS The propeller washer, if used, and shear pin, play an extremely important role. When shifting gears during normal opera- tion, or if the propeller should hit an under- water obstacle, the propeller is subjected to considerable shock. A washer is installed between the propeller and drive pin. This washer MUST always be in place for proper operation. If the hub should slip, the propel- ler will move back towards the propeller nut and lock against the drive pin. The washer is designed to stop propeller movement so the drive pin can be easily removed for service. Now, on with the installation. Install the propeller. Coat the propeller shaft with an anti-corrosion grease. Install the propeller with the drive pin holes align- ed. Install the washer and drive pin. Slide the propeller cap into place and secure it with the cotter pin. If the unit being serviced uses the shear pin between the propeller and the bearing carrier, proceed as follows: Install the shear pin and then coat the propeller shaft with anti-corrosion grease; install the pro- peller; propeller nut; and then the cotter pin. Removing the shear pin from the propeller shaft. In this case, the shear pin is installed between the propel- ler and the gearcase head. 8-6 LOWER UNIT Arrangement of the shear pin, washer, and pro- peller nut on a typical lower unit. In this case, the shear pin is installed behind the propeller nut. EXHAUST PROPELLER INSTALLATION Slide the thrust washer onto the propel- ler shaft. Coat the propeller shaft with Perfect Seal No. ‘4, Triple Guard Grease, or similar good grade of lubricant to prevent the propeller from becoming "frozen" to the shaft. Slide the propeller onto the shaft with the splines in the propeller indexing with the splines on the shaft. Slide the splined washer onto the shaft. Thread the castellated nut onto the shaft. Jamb a piece of board between one of the propeller blades and the cavitation plate to prevent the propeller from turning. Tighten the propeller nut securely and then a bit more to align the hole through the nut with the hole through the propeller shaft. Install the cotter pin through the nut and propeller shaft. « W W / 9 4 % o f » m m ; W “ . «Mkfiwng. ammo«mm... =2: m . . » < . = z w * » , . "We“Afifiww v a c V - h w » ' % ' v < $ . w w é v v w 4 fl M y ¢ b w w W « . 1 . ” 5 3 : 3 5 ? ” W I r m m « 3 w « 9 . W . m - x “)4” “ ( M n Installing the thrust washer onto the propeller shaft of a propeller exhaust unit. j. ”ii 38:33; ' 5;; .fipQfifi >~.,. Applying gasket sealer to the propeller shaft splines to prevent the propeller from becoming "frozen" to the shaft. Installation of a propeller exhaust propeller with principle parts identified. Tightening the nut on a propeller exhaust unit. The cotter pin is installed after the nut is secure. 8-3 LOWER UNIT LUBRICATION DRAINING LOWER UNIT Position a suitable container under the lower unit, and then remove the FILL screw and the VENT screw. CRITICAL WORD On many lower units, the Phillips screw securing the shift fork in place is located very close to the vent screw. On some units Installing the cotter pin through the castellated nut on a propeller exhaust unit. LUBRICATION 8—7 the Phillips screw is located on the other side. If the wrong screw is removed, BAD NEWS, VERY BAD NEWS. The lower unit will have to be disassembled in order to return the shift fork to its proper location, illustration A. Allow the gear lubricant to drain into the container. As the lubricant drains, catch some with your fingers, from time-to- time, and rub it between your thumb and finger to determine if any metal particles are present. If metal is detected in the lubricant, the unit must be completely dis- assembled, inspected, and the damaged 8-8 LOWER UNIT Check the color of the lubricant as it drains. A whitish or creamy color indicates the presence of water in the lubricant. Check the drain pan for signs of water separation from the lubricant. The presence of any water in the gear lubricant is BAD NEWS. The unit must be completely disas- sembled, inspected, the cause of the prob- lem determined, and then corrected. FILLING LOWER UNIT Fill the lower unit with lubricant. Insert the lubricant tube into the bottom opening, and then fill the unit until lubricant is visible at the vent hole. The 2 hp model does not have a vent screw. Therefore, this unit must be laid in a horizontal position for filling and time taken to allow the lubricant to work into the lower unit cavity by raising the skeg slightly from time-to-time. Install the vent plug. Remove the gear lubricant tube and install the drain/fill plug. After the lower plug has been installed, remove the vent plug again and using a squirt-type oil can, add lubricant through this vent hole. A squirt-type oil can must be used to allow the trapped air in the lower unit to escape at the same time the final lubricant is added. Once the unit is com- pletely full, install and tighten the vent plug. ”a 7v»af§:§~ff "3”»«w « a t , ~ " ° v é 2 ¢ « . 3 : V 5? ‘5 - r Filling a lower unit with OMC Gearcase Lubricant. Notice the vent plug has been removed to allow air to escape, as the wit fills with lubricant. "Topping off" the lower unit using a squirt—type oil can through the vent hole, as described in the text. 8-4 N0 SHIFT LOWER UNIT SERVICE ALL 1.25 HP T0 4.0 HP EXCEPT ll DELUX (4 Delux — See Section 8-5) Description This is a very simple direct drive unit without any shift capabilities. Reverse is obtained by rotating the engine 180° and holding that position while the boat is mov- ed sternward. Therefore, no shift rod dis- connects are necessary. propeller, propeller nut, and cotter pin, are shown. TROUBLESHOOTING The first item to check whenever loss of boat movement is encountered is the shear pin. The next area to check is the rubber hub in the propeller, if one is installed. A worn hub will give an indication the unit is not in gear. The splines in the crankshaft or on the driveshaft may be damaged or worn and thus prevent rotation from the crankshaft to reach the propeller shaft. If the splines in the crankshaft are destroyed, the crankshaft will have to be replaced. See Chapter 3, Powerhead. If the splines on the driveshaft have been destroyed, the driveshaft must be replaced. Procedure to replace the drive- shaft are included in each section of this chapter. Frozen Powerhead This condition is suggested when the operator unsuccessfully attempts to crank the engine with a hand starter. The fly— wheel will not rotate. Do not assume the engine is "frozen" until the lower unit has been removed and thoroughly checked. If the lower unit is "locked" (the driveshaft or propeller shaft will not rotate), the power- head will have the indication of being "fro- zen" (failure to rotate the flywheel). The first step to perform under these conditions is to "pull" the lower unit, and then again attempt to crank the engine. If the attempt is successful with the lower unit disconnected, the problem is in the NO SHIFT 8-9 lower unit. If the attempt to crank the engine is still unsuccessful, the problem is in the powerhead. Propeller Removal Remove the propeller according to the procedures outlined in Section 8-2. Draining the Lower Unit Drain the lower unit according to the procedures outlined in Section 8-3. GOOD WORDS If water is discovered in the lower unit and the propeller shaft seal is damaged and requires replacement, the lower unit does NOT have to be removed in order to accom- plish the work. The seal may be replaced by first remov- ing the two screws securing the cap in place and then tapping on the cap with a soft- headed mallet to jar it loose. “The cap is then removed, the seal removed and replac— ed, and the cap installed and secured. LOWER UNIT REMOVAL ADVICE If the only work to be performed is service of the water pump, be extremely CAREFUL to prevent the driveshaft from being pulled up and free of the pinion gear in the lower unit. NEVER carry the lower unit by the driveshaft. If the shaft should be released from the pinion, the lower unit MUST be disassembled to align the pinion gear and driveshaft, then the driveshaft installed. 8- l0 LOWER UNIT 1- Disconnect the spark plug wire from the plug. Remove the retaining bolts secur- ing the lower unit to the exhaust housing. CAREFULLY pull directly downward, to prevent damage to the water tube, and remove the lower unit. WATER PUMP REMOVAL 2- Remove the screws securing the wat- er pump to the lower unit housing. It is very possible corrosion will cause the screw heads to break-off when an attempt to re- move them is made. If this should happen, use a chisel and break away the water pump housing from the lower unit. EXERCISE CARE not to damage the lower unit hous- ing. 3- After the screws have been removed, slide the water pump and impeller upward and free of the driveshaft. Remove the Woodruff key, and then the lower water pump plat-e, GOOD WORDS The 2.5hp, llhp, Ultra, Junior, and Excel units since 1984 have a water intake screen beneath the lower water pump plate. Re- move the screen and clean away any debris which might clog the water passageway and cause an overheating condition. NOTE If the only work to be performed is service of the water pump, proceed directly to Water Pump Installation, Step 5 on Page 8-14. LOWER UNIT DISASSEMBLING li- Remove the gearcase head and the two screws. Pull on the propeller shaft or tap on the gearcase head to separate the gearcase head from the lower unit housing. On all units except the 2.5hp, 4hp, Ultra, Junior, and Excel prior to 1984: The driven IMPELLER 6) gear is pressed onto the propeller shaft. Therefore, the propeller shaft and gear are considered as a complete assembly. If either is damaged and requires replacement, the two are purchased as an assembly. On the 2.5hp, llhp, Ultra, Junior, and Excel since 1984: Hold the forward gear still while rotating the propeller shaft COUNTER-CLOCKWISE and pull the gear and shaft apart. Remove the spring. 5- Pull upward on the driveshaft, and at the same time, reach inside the lower unit and remove the pinion gear. Models 2.5hp, llhp, Ultra, Junior, and Excel since 1984 have a thrust washer and bearing set infront of the forward gear and another thrust washer and bearing set be- hind the pinion gear. remove and identify both sets to make sure they are installed in their original locations. SPECIAL WORDS On the Weedless type lower unit, a thrust bearing is installed under the pinion DRIVESHAET_7_7;f§{f;g PINIUN' '- GEAR . gear, This thrust bearing can only be re- moved by tapping it out in the following manner: Turn the lower unit so the propel- ler shaft opening is facing downward. Now, gently rap the unit on a work bench or block of wood. .The thrust bearing and pinion gear will be dislodged and fall free. 6- If the seal/s at the top of the lower unit housing under the water pump is to be replaced, remove the seal using any type seal remover. To remove the seal/s in the gearcase head, work the seal free by using a punch and mallet from the back side. Re- move the O—ring. CLEANING AND INSPECTING Clean all water pump parts with solvent, and then dry them with compressed air. Inspect the water pump cover and base for cracks and distortion, possibly caused from overheating. Inspect the face plate and water pump insert for grooves and/or rough surfaces. If possible, ALWAYS install a complete new water pump while the lower unit is disassembled. A new impeller will ensure extended satisfactory service and give "peace of mind" to the owner. If the HATER / TUBE fl PILOT 8/ mm; EXTENSION GEAR CASE HEAD @/ SEAL/S an. / g \\ o-mms"r ‘PgOPELLER “ANQ EEAR PROPELLER “‘ /"Z€l@l PROPELLER NUT PROPELLER “mm, PINION *SPR 1 N6 N0 SHIFT 8-ll old impeller must be returned to service, NEVER install it in reverse to the original direction of rotation. Installation in reverse will cause premature impeller failure. Inspect the impeller side seal surfaces and the ends of the impeller blades for cracks, tears, and wear. Check for a glazed or melted appearance, caused from operat- ing without sufficient water. If any ques— tion exists, and as previously stated, install a new impeller if at all possible. AND *USED ON 2.5HP, 1“1?, ULTRA, JUNIOR ._- ’ AND EXCEL MODELS SINCE 1981! NOTE: THO SEALS -- INSTALL BACK-TO-BACK Exploded drawing of a non-shifting lower unit, with principle parts identified. 842 LOWER UNH' O-RJNG DRIVESHAFT GEAR CASE PROPELLER SHAFT “NW" AND GEAR ’ GEAR O-RING BEARING HOUSING\ PROPELLER H B NUT U CLUTCH BUSHING PROPELLER Exploded drawing of the Weedless lower unit gearcase, with major parts identified. able hub. This hub is badly corroded. The hub and propeller should be replaced. Clean all parts with solvent and dry them with compressed air. DISCARD all 0- rings and gaskets. Inspect and replace the driveshaft if the splines are worn. Inspect the gearcase and exhaust housing for dam- age to the machined surfaces. Remove any nicks and refurbish the surfaces on a surface plate. Start with a No. 120 Emery paper and finish with No. 180. Check the water intake screen and pas- sages. Inspect the drive gear, pinion gear, and thrust washers. Replace these items if they appear worn. LOWER UNIT ASSEMBLING SPECIAL WORDS The 2.5hp, th, Ultra, Junior, and Excel since 198‘}, use a double seal arrangement on the propeller shaft and driveshaft. The two seals are installed BACK-TO—BACK (flat side to flat side). The outer seal will prevent the water from entering the lower unit and the inner seal will prevent lubricant ‘‘‘‘‘ \..x.(v. s‘ Checking the drive gear and propeller shaft on a 2 hp lower unit. NO SHIFT 8-l3 (D 1- Tap a NEW seal/s into place on top of the lower unit housing. 2- Tap a NEW seal/s into place in the gearcase head. Install a NEW O-ring into the groove in the gearcase. 3- On the 2.5hp, 4hp, Ultra, Junior, and Excel units since 1984: Place the thrust bearing followed by the thrust washer down over the flat surface of the pinion gear. All Models: Install the pinion gear into the recess in the lower unit housing. If the unit being serviced is the "Weedless" type gearcase, install the thrust bearing with the bosses on the bearing indexed between the two bosses in the gearcase. Hold the pinion DRIVES-INT 7. I I I . P | N ION GEAR. 8- l4 LOWER UNIT gear in place with one hand and with the other hand install the driveshaft down into the lower unit. Continue to hold the pinion gear, and at the same time, rotate the driveshaft slightly after it makes contact with the pinion gear to allow the splines on the shaft to index with the splines in the gear. SPECIAL WORDS After the driveshaft is installed, care must be exercised NOT to allow the drive— shaft to slip out of position in the pinion gear. This is especially important during water pump installation work. If the drive- shaft should come free, the lower unit must be disassembled in order to install the drive— shaft back into the pinion gear. MORE SPECIAL WORDS If servicing a 2.5hp, lthp, Ultra, Junior, or Excel manufactured since 1984: Slide the spring over the forward gear shank with the spring tang facing the gear. Push the propeller shaft into the gear shank while rotating the shaft COUNTERCLOCKWISE, until the shaft seats. Slide the thrust bearing followed by the thrust washer over the forward end of the shaft. All Models 4- Coat the propeller shaft and the gearcase O-ring with oil as an aid to instal- lation. Install the gearcase head over the propeller shaft. Slide the propeller shaft through the lower unit with the driven gear teeth indexed with the teeth of the pinion gear. It may be necessary to rotate the propeller shaft slightly in order to index the driven and pinion gear teeth. The teeth MUST engage fully and properly or the gear- case head will be damaged when the attach— ing screws are installed. Coat the screws securing the head to the lower unit with sealer, and then install the screws. CARE- a FULLY tap on the gearcase head with a soft-headed mallet and tighten the screws EVENLY and ALTERNATELY. CRITICAL WORDS If the screws are not tightened evenly, or the driven gear and pinion gear teeth are not fully and properly engaged, the gearcase head will be thrown out of line just a whisker, and the ears through which the bolts pass may snap off. BAD NEWS! A new gearcase head would have to be pur- chased. If the unit being serviced is the "Weed- less" type, two sets of matching marks on the gearcase head and the lower unit MUST be aligned when the head is installed. If the unit being serviced is the "High— Thrust" type, the gearcase has a hole which MUST face upward when the head is install— ed. WATER PUMP INSTALLATION 5- Lay down a bead of sealer No. 1000 onto the lower unit surface. If servicing a 2.5hp, l4hp, Ultra, Junior, or Excel unit manufactured since 1984: Install the water intake screen over the driveshaft with the three prongs facing UPWARD. All models: Slide the water pump plate down the driveshaft and onto the lower unit surface, or screen if used. 6- Insert the Woodruff key into the driveshaft groove. ‘ IHPELLER 7- Slide the water pump impeller down the driveshaft and into place on top of the water pump base plate with the pump pin indexed in the impeller. Lubricate the in~ side surface of the water pump with light~ weight oil. 8- Lower the water pump housing down the driveshaft and over the impeller. Ro- tate the driveshaft CLOCKWISE as the wa~ ter pump housing is lowered to allow the impeller blades to assume their natural and proper position inside the housing. Continue to rotate the driveshaft and work the water pump housing downward until it is seated on the lower unit upper housing surface. 9- Rotate the driveshaft CLOCKWISE whiie the screws are tightened to prevent damaging the impeller vanes. If the impel- ler is not rotated, the housing could damage or cut the end of the vanes as the screws are brought up tight. The rotation allows them to spring back into a natural position. Place a NEW grommet into the water pump housing for the water pickup tube. If a new water pump was installed, this seal will already be in place. Install a NEW O-ring on the top of the driveshaft. LOWER UNIT INSTALLATION 10— Clean and shine the water pump tube with lightweight sandpaper, and then ‘waEa PUHP nousznc NO SHIFT 8- l5 coat it with oil as an aid to installation. Apply oil to the grommet in the water pump housing as a further aid to installation. This tube is very small in size and will bend easily during installation if it has even a little difficulty passing through the rubber grommet in the water pump housing. Bring the lower unit together to mate with the exhaust housing. Guide the water tube into the water pump housing grommet, and at the same time rotate the propeller shaft CLOCKWISE. Rotating the propeller 8- l6 LOWER UNIT shaft will also rotate the driveshaft and allow the splines on the driveshaft to index with the splines of the engine crankshaft. Continue to work the lower unit closer to the exhaust housing until the mating sur- faces make contact. Coat the retaining screws with sealer to prevent corrosion, and then start them in place. Tighten the retaining screws EVENLY and ALTERNATE- LY. FILLING THE LOWER UNIT 11- Fill the lower unit with lubricant. Insert the lubricant tube into the bottom opening, and then fill the unit until lubricant is visible at the vent hole. Install the vent plug. Remove the gear lubricant tube, and install the drain/fill plug. 12- After the lower plug has been in- stalled, remove the vent plug again and using a squirt-type oil can, add lubricant through this vent hole. A squirt-type oil can must be used to allow the trapped air in the lower unit to escape at the same time the final lubricant is added. Once the unit is completely full, install and tighten the vent plug. PROPELLER INSTALLATION FIRST, THESE GOOD WORDS The propellers used on the outboards covered in this section have a removable clutch ring and a clutch hub, and bushing. Under normal conditions, these items are NOT removed from the propeller. However, if they have been removed for any number of reasons, they should be coated with OMC Type "A" lubricant prior to installation. The bushing is installed first, then the clutch hub, and finally the clutch ring, illustration A. 13- Install the shear pin. Apply a light coating of anti-corrosive lubricant onto the propeller shaft. Slide the propeller onto the shaft, then the washer, and finally the pro- peller nut, with the flange on the nut TO- WARDS the propeller. Tighten the nut securely. Install a cotter pin to prevent the nut from‘ backing out. Slip the rubber cap over the propeller nut. l'l- Perform a functional checkof the completed work by mounting the engine in a test tank, in a body of water, or with a flush attachment connected to the lower unit. If the flush attachment is used, NEVER oper— ate the engine above an idle speed, because the no-load condition on the propeller would allow the engine to RUNAWAY resulting in serious damage or destruction of the engine. CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the en- gine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower mit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump. Start the engine and observe the tattle- tale flow of water from idle relief in the exhaust housing. The water pump installa- tion work is verified. If a "Flushette" is connected to the lower unit, VERY LITTLE water will be visible from the idle relief port. SHIFT NO DISCONNECT 8—l7 8-5 LOWER UNIT SERVICE SHIFT WITH NO DISCONNECT 4 DELUX, 4.51113, 5HP, 6HP, 7.5HP, AND 8HP 1980 AND ON Description This unit has a shift mechanism that is controlled through a shift handle on the starboard side of the exhaust housing. A shaft extends through the housing and is connected to a gear on the inside. Another gear transfers the motion downward by means of a shaft indexed into the gear. Therefore, the shift rod is not disconnected in order to remove the lower unit. The unit is shifted through a cam and plunger on the end of the shift rod. This cam and plunger arrangement forces the clutch dog forward and aft for NEUTRAL gear and REVERSE gear operation. The cam and plunger on the end of the shift rod are at rest when the unit is in FORWARD gear. Action takes place and movement is neces- sary to depress the pin in the propeller shaft to move the clutch dog for neutral and reverse gear. Propeller Removal Remove the propeller according to the detailed procedures outlined in Section 8-2. 8- l 8 LOWER UNIT Draining the Lower Unit Drain the lower unit according to the procedures outlined in Section 8—3. LOWER UNIT REMOVAL ADVICE If the only work to be performed is service of the water pump, be extremely CAREFUL to prevent the driveshaft from being pulled up and free of the pinion gear in the lower unit. NEVER carry the lower unit by the driveshaft or by the shift rod. If the shaft should be released from the pinion, the lower unit MUST be disassembled to align the pinion gear and driveshaft, then the driveshaft installed. 1- Disconnect the spark plug wire from the plug. Turn the propeller shaft CLOCK- WISE, and at the same time shift the unit into FORWARD gear using the shift handle. Remove the retaining bolts securing the lower unit to the exhaust housing. Two bolts are located under the caviatation plate on each side of the zinc. A third bolt is located just above the cavitation plate at the forward leading edge of the exhaust housing. CAREFULLY pull directly down— ward on the lower unit, to prevent damage to the water tube, driveshaft, or shift rod, and remove the lower unit. The shift rod and the driveshaft will come free of the powerhead with the lower unit. GOOD WORDS If this shift rod is frozen in the gear at the shift handle, the rod will not come free with the lower unit. In this case, the shift handle mechanism must be disassembled in order to remove the gear on the end of the shift rod. The powerhead would have to be removed to gain access to the gears. MORE GOOD WORDS In MOST cases, if any unit being serviced has the 6-inch extension, it is NOT neces- sary to remove the extension in order to "drop" the lower unit. 2— Position the lower unit in a vertical position on the edge of the work bench resting on the cavitation plate. Secure the lower unit in this position with a C—clamp. The lower unit will then be held firmly in a favorable position for further service work. An alternate method is to cut a groove in a short piece of 2" x 6" wood to accommodate the lower unit with the cavitation plate resting on top of the wood. Clamp the wood in a vise and service work may then be performed with the lower unit erect (in its normal position), or inverted (upside down). In both positions, the cavitation plate is the supporting surface. WATER PUMP DISASSEMBLING TAKE TIME Take time to notice the four bolts pass— ing through the water pump. If a water pump replacement is the only work to be performed, DO NOT remove the three bolts in the gearcase cover. If these bolts should mistakenly be removed, the shift rod will be dislodged -- BAD NEWS. It is then neces- sary to rebuild the lower unit. iHPE'LE'EIi KEY 3- With the lower unit in position as described in Step 2 above, remove the 0- ring from the top of the driveshaft. Re- move the four bolts through the water pump. Work the water pump upward and free of the driveshaft. #- Work the impeller up the driveshaft. Remove the impeller key. 5- Remove the water pump plate and gasket. Notice the plate and two gaskets under the water pump impeller. Notice how the plate is installed with the beveled, or rounded side of the plate facing UP. Both gaskets are identical and either one may be installed on top of the plate. If the only work to be performed is service of the water pump, proceed directly to Page 8—33, Water Pump Installation. LOWER UNIT DISASSEMBLING 6- Remove the two screws installed in the gearcase head. Tap the gearcase head in either direction with a soft-headed mal- let, to turn the head in the housing. The GASKET SHIFT NO DISCONNECT 8-I9 be‘a‘fié’x . 3}“ A «V» 3». ears of the gearcase head will then protrude out the side of the lower unit. After the ears are exposed, tap on the bottom side of the ears and remove the gearcase head. 7- After the head is removed, the re- verse gear, propeller shaft, and clutch dog can then be removed as an assembly. As the shaft is removed, TAKE CARE not to lose the plunger from the center of the shaft. Slide the gearcase head and reverse gear from the propeller shaft. If working on a newer model, 1984 and on, also slide the thrust washer from the propeller shaft. 8- Remove the plunger pin from inside the propeller shaft end. Use a small screw- driver and work the coiled spring off the 9;. .ksky‘agw “Jaw“... s ; 6 w w .5 » . I“. r “ ; w " . . ..-\,.Z... 8-20 LOWER UNIT inside diameter of the clutch dog. Be very careful not to stretch the spring out of shape. If the spring is distorted, it is unfit for further service, because it will not hold the pin properly in the clutch dog. There— fore, if the spring is stretched out of shape, it must be replaced. 9- Use special tool OMC No. 390766 to remove the pin from the clutch dog. Insert the tool into the forward gear end of the propeller shaft, push downward, and at the same time push the pin through the clutch dog. Ease up on the tool and remove the clutch dog from the propeller shaft. This special tool will depress the spring and allow the pin to be removed. 10- If the tool is not available, hold the end of the propeller shaft on the bench or piece of wood, press down on the shaft, remove the plunger pin. 11- Remove the spring from the end of the propeller shaft. 12- Insert the propeller shaft down into the forward gear. Use a clenched fist and rap sharply on the end of the propeller shaft towards the cavitation plate. This action will disengage the forward gear bearing out of the cup and from the pinion gear. Re— move the propeller shaft. Reach into the lower unit and remove the forward gear. 13- Pull upward on the driveshaft, and at the same reach inside the lower unit and remove the pinion gear, the two thrust washers, and the thrust bearing. Notice how the washers are installed on the pinion gear. PROPELLER They MUST be installed in the same order and position from which they are removed. 14- Clean the shift rod and then coat it with oil, as an aid to removing the gearcase cover. Remove the three retaining bolts, and then slide the gearcase cover up and free of the shift rod. 15- Lift the shift rod free of the gear- case, and at the same time reach into lower unit cavity and remove the shift cam. Removing the Forward Bearing Race 16- Use a slide hammer with fingers to remove the forward bearing race from the lower unit housing. GOOD WORDS A driveshaft bearing is installed at the top of the lower unit. A pinion gear bearing is installed at the lower end of the drive- shaft. A bearing is attached to the forward gear. Under normal overhaul conditions, it is not necessary to remove these bearings unless they are unfit for further service. To determine if replacement is necessary, in- sert a finger into the bearing and feel for SHIFT NO DISCONNECT 8-2l fl"; .4; Pinion gear with the beveled washers and thrust washer in the correct order on the shank. roughness. Check them with a flashlight. However, if they are to be removed, per— form the following three steps. GEARCASE COVER 8-22 LOWER UNIT Upper Gearcase Bearing Removal 17- A special puller is required to re- move the upper bearing installed under the gearcase cover. The complete puller con- sists of a slide hammer, OMC No. 380658, and a bearing remover, OMC No. 380657. If the special puller is not available, a puller similar to the one shown in the accompany- ing illustration may be used effectively. Fit the fingers of the puller underneath the bearing and hold them in place with a heavy rubberband. Use the slide hammer to pull the bearing free of the recess. The slide hammer in this case, is used in the opposite application for which it was designed. TIE WRAP 3;; Upper driveshaft bearing and bearing housing. The housing is removed first, and then the bearing, but only if the bearing is unfit for further service. Pinion Gear Bearing Removal 18- If the bearing has been damaged to the point where it must be replaced, it may be driven out with a punch, or other suitable tool, because further damage is no loss. Drive the bearing downward into the bore of the lower unit. Forward Gear Bearing Removal This bearing should only be removed if the bearing or gear is damaged and is to be replaced. 19- A beveled clamp-type arrangement, as shown in the accompanying illustration, is required. Such a tool will exert a force between the bearing and the gear in order to remove the bearing without harm. Install the clamp and tighten it around the bearing. Now, push in the center of the bearing. The gear and bearing will separate. u “ I ? » « . i . » . 9 - p v t fl ‘ fi fl w o v f u ‘ r y ‘ «a» . g g v é m m w m m . ” g z a u w u w w w ' g m y w u fl n .. .. . $5?“ 5 . 4 “ H . . . .. { # 4 9 « a : v » S W ? N ? - < 9 : . w BEAR [HG Seal Removal from the Gearcase Head 20- Remove the O-ring and then rein- stall the head back onto the lower unit. Tighten the two retaining bolts. Use a slide hammer to remove the two seals from the gearcase head. Remove the two retaining bolts and again remove the head of the lower unit. Seal Removal from the Gearcase Cover 21- Use special tool OMC No. 319880 or any type of punch to remove the seals. If the seal has been damaged to the point where it must be replaced, it may be driven out with a punch, or other suitable tool, because further damage is no loss. Shift Rod Seal Removal 22- Use the shift rod to remove the seal. Work the shift rod in the seal, and then push outward and the seal will pop out of the gearcase cover. After the seal has been removed, remove the O-ring. SHIFT NO DISCONNECT 8-23 CLEANING AND INSPECTING Clean all water pump parts with solvent, and then dry them with compressed air. Inspect the water pump cover and base for cracks and distortion, possibly caused from overheating. Inspect the face plate and water pump insert for grooves and/or rough surfaces. If possible, ALWAYS install a complete new water pump while the lower unit is disassembled. A new impeller will ensure extended satisfactory service and give "peace of mind" to the owner. If the old impeller must be returned to service, The side of the clutch dog shown must face toward the propeller. 8-24 LOWER UNIT NEVER install it in reverse to the original direction of rotation. Installation in reverse will cause premature impeller failure. Inspect the impeller side seal surfaces and the ends of the impeller blades for cracks, tears, and wear. Check for a glazed or melted appearance, caused from operat— ing without sufficient water. If any ques— tion exists, and as previously stated, install a new impeller if at all possible. Clean all parts with solvent and dry them with compressed air. DISCARD all 0- rings and gaskets. Inspect and replace the driveshaft if the splines are worn. Inspect the gearcase and exhaust housing for dam- age to the machined surfaces. Remove any nicks and refurbish the surfaces on a surface plate. Start with a No. 120 Emery paper and finish with No. 180. Check the water intake screen and pas- sages by removing the bypass cover, if one is used. Inspect the clutch dog, drive gears, pinion gear, and thrust washers. Replace these items if they appear worn. If the clutch dog and drive gear arrangement sur— ‘Pinion 'gear" ' 'with the first thrust"'ufafsher”'to he installed. The inside diameter of the washer is beveled. - . gfi-Wt .. 'I' was "115;? ff e. gaskets s Shift cam with the word UP embossed on the arm to ensure proper installation. rounded, the operator may be performing the shift operation improperly or the con- trols may not be adjusted correctly. These items MUST be replaced if they are dam- aged. Inspect the dog ears on the inside of the forward and reverse gears. The gears must be replaced if they are damaged. Check the clutch dog retaining spring to be sure it is not distorted. Removing the needle bearings from the upper drive— shaft bearing retainer. SHIFT NO DISCONNECT 8-25 *REVERSE GEAR THRUST WASHER -- 1981} AND ON GROMHET EXTENS ION IMPELLER HOUSING D Q) gm IMPELLER cu:D COVER IMPELLER «Q; v GASKET SEAL IMPELLER 4 % 7 PLATE G® 0 0©0 O-RING @ 7‘9) OQ 13mm" GASKET \\ DRIVESHAFT BEARING AND SLEEV THRUST/@ BEAR'NG \\ J E SHIFT ROD . ' \ . RETAINING RING wASHER cfiz cEARCASE @ REVERSE /\ ”RUST GEAR a @ BEARING i. > a .; E” h ’ (\Eprém“ CLUTCH DOG $§_, K9; V \‘ WI”? RETAINER U PROPELLER\ SHAFT \ / ; SHlFTER “ii?" 1' 1 \SPRING \\CLUTCH ooc PLUNGER \ FORWARD SHlFT BEARING CAN 1.,_.,__.*w“___/ SEAL GEARCASE O-R 1 MG HEAD Exploded drawing of a lower unit for the 4.5 hp and 7.5 hp units, with major parts identified. 8-26 LOWER UNIT § ‘43“ >! w s as; r; lirrh’ ”(new { Two seals showing the back side (left) and the front side (right). When double seals are installed, they must always be installed back-to-back with Triple Guard Grease between the flat surfaces. 3.; LOWER UNIT ASSEMBLING 3 3 «my. “5"“ READ AND BELIEVE The lower unit should not be assembled in a dry condition. Coat all internal parts with OMC HI-VIS lube oil as they are as— sembled. Gearcase Cover Seal Installation 1— Install one seal at a time -- back-to— back. Use OMC Adhesive Type-M and spe- cial tool OMC No. 326547 or a socket the same size as the seal. Press the first seal into place from the bottom side of the cover. 2- Coat the seal with Triple-Guard Grease. This type of grease will not dissi- pate, but remains to perform its lubricating job between the seals. 3- Press the second seal into the gear case cover from the bottom side using the special tool or the proper size socket. Shift Rod O-ring and Bushing Installation WWWWWWtngw _ W W a: ll- Slide the O-ring into place in the 5%?sts1. . fismiwfiwwgffm gearcase cover head. Glue the shift rod bushing into the cover using OMC Adhesive Type-M. z 9 “ ” V 9 ‘ “ e v e n ” . “ I ‘ - Pinion and Driveshaft Bearings -- Installation If the pinion and driveshaft bearings were removed, they are installed simulta- neously using special tools. There is no “ V ? ” 6 9 - 4 5 : 2 $3: 5: s E “Woo/wovm; ‘ A M « 9 5 “ w v e s m i w 4 % e f 5 4 r f l 1 l as ‘9' ;§ 2;.2s m . e w e s other way to install these bearings properly without the special OMC tools. Sorry about that! 5- Obtain special tool OMC No. 383173 and Spacer No. 383174. The pinion bearing is installed with the lettered side facing DOWN. The driveshaft bearing is installed with the lettered side facing UP. The tool will be pressing against the lettered side of each bearing. Work the bearings into place by tightening on the tool nut. Forward Gear Bearing Race Installation If the forward gear bearing race was removed, a new bearing can only be properly installed using a special OMC tool. As with the pinion and driveshaft bearings, there is no other way. Again, sorry about that! 6- Obtain special tool OMC No. 326025. Set the bearing race in the housing, and then use the tool and tap the race into position. Forward Gear Bearing Installation This bearing can be installed WITHOUT the use of a special tool. 7- Place the bearing in position on the forward gear with the taper facing AWAY from the gear. Press the bearing into position using a proper size socket. A short length of 1-1/4" O.D. pipe may also be used to install the bearing. SPECIAL TOOL fOHC NO. 383173 SPECIAL TOOL gone NO. 383171: 4___DR IVESHAFT ‘ - BEARING LETTERED SIDE OF BEARING PINIUN ’33: Egg-‘BEARING *£__£«= -' '3 I /.__. a“=_"_-;- SPECIAL TOOL LETTERED SIDE Whom no. 319878 0F BEARING <5) SHIFT NO DISCONNECT 8-27 . w Gearcnse Head Seal Installation These two seals are of different sizes -- one small -- the other larger. The smaller (narrow) seal is installed on the inside of the gearcase head with the lip facing INWARD. The larger (wide) seal is installed on the outside of the head with the lip facing OUTWARD. 8- Install each seal from the proper side of the gearcase head. Use Triple Guard Grease between the seals. This type of grease will not dissipate, but remain to per- form its lubricating job. Install the O-ring into the groove of the gearcase head. Set the gearcase cover assembly aside for installation later. 8-28 LOWER UNIT w fi fi m fl z h A“53‘9““: 1”» Q}, Shift Rod and Shift Cam Installation 9- Pickup the cam with a pair of needle- nose pliers and observe the word UP emboss- ed on the arm of the cam. Take special notice of the irregular shape of the cam arm. The long flat surface must butt up against the back side of the lower unit housing. Also observe the inside diameter of the cam with the flat area on the side next to the cam arm. 10- Using the needle-nose pliers, lower the shift cam down into the lower unit with the flat edge of the cam arm facing the PORT side and towards the BACK of the housing, as shown. Push the cam all the way in with the flat side of the cam against the back of the housing. In this position, when the shift rod is installed, the correct half- moon area on the inside diameter of the cam will index in the cam and the shift rod will be the proper position. 11- Snap the E-clip into the recess of the shift rod, as shown. Insert the shift rod down through the lower unit housing and into the shift cam with the retaining ring (Di sure the flat area on the end of the rod is in the same plane (fore-and-aft) as shown in the accompanying illustration, "A", when viewed from the PORT side. SPECIAL NOTE When the shift rod is rotated to the position shown in illustration "B", as viewed from the PORT side, the unit will be in NEUTRAL. When the shift rod is rotated further to the position shown in illustration "C", still viewed from the PORT side, the unit is in REVERSE. Gear Case Cover Installation 12- Place a NEW gasket on the bottom of the gearcase cover. Coat the bottom side of the gearcase cover and the mating surface of the lower unit with OMC Adhe- sive T SHIFT NO DISCONNECT 8—29 an aid to installing the gearcase cover. Slide the gearcase cover down over the shift rod. Secure the gearcase cover to the lower unit with the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts evenly and alternately to the torque value given in the Appendix. Pinion Gear Bearings Installation Onto Pinion Gear A bearing, two thrust washers, and a thrust bearing, are used on the pinion gear. The method and order of installation is most important. Notice how the inside diameter of one thrust washer is beveled. This wash- er is installed first with the beveled side facing DOWN. The thrust bearing is install- ed next, and finally the second thrust wash- er, with the outside beveled side facing UP. 8-30 LOWER UNIT 13- Coat the thrust washers, the thrust bearing, and the shank of the pinion gear with OMC HI—VIS Gearcase Lubricant. Slide the thrust washer with the beveled side facing the pinion gear shank. 14- Slide the thrust bearing onto the shank with the flat side facing DOWN. 15- Slide the second thrust washer onto the pinion gear shank with the outside bev- Lower Unit Assembling 16- Work the pinion gear assembly up into the lower unit housing through the pinion gear bearing previously installed into the housing. 17- Secure the lower unit in a horizontal position (900 from the normal position). Lower the forward gear into the lower unit housing with the gear tilted toward the cavitation plate and the gear teeth facing backward toward the opening. 18- Insert the propeller shaft through the opening and through the forward gear. 9‘ w.‘ . mg); P I N to ¢¢ :kl s FORUARD GEAR PROPELLER SHIFT NO DISCONNECT 8-3I Forcefully pull the propeller shaft toward the skeg to snap the teeth of the forward into mesh with the teeth of the pinion gear. When the two gears have meshed, the pro- peller shaft will be in a vertical position. Withdraw the propeller shaft. Propeller Shaft Assembling l9— Observe the clutch dog. Notice the mark on the clutch dog indicating the pro- peller end. This end MUST be installed toward the propeller. 20- Coat the spring with lubricant, and then slide it into the center of the propeller shaft at the forward gear end. Lubricate, and then slide the clutch dog onto the propeller shaft with the mark on the clutch dog facing TOWARD the propeller end of the shaft. 21— Insert special tool OMC No. 390766 into the end of the propeller shaftvand depress the spring just installed. If the special tool is not available, a small screw- driver may be used. The job is not as easy sake»)! ~ ”vow/£3 2f; Q??? a»; 8-32 LOWER UNIT as with the tool, but with a little patience and time, the spring can be depressed and the pin inserted. With the spring depressed, insert the pin through the clutch dog and the propeller shaft. Center the pin through the clutch dog, and then remove the special tool. 22- Install the clutch dog spring retainer into—the groove in the clutch dog. TAKE CARE not to stretch the spring as it is stretched over the clutch dog. If the spring is stretched, it will allow the pin to come free of the clutch dog. Propeller Shaft Assembly Installation 23- Apply some OMC I-II-VIS lubricant to the plunger. Insert the square end of the plunger into the hole in the end of the propeller shaft. This plunger will make contact with the clutch dog pin through the propeller shaft. Lower the assembled pro— peller shaft into the lower unit, with care to prevent the plunger pin from being dislodged from the shaft. Work the end of the pro- peller shaft all the way into the forward gear. REVERSE GEAR .» o.‘ 21:- Models 19814 and later: Slide the thrust washer onto the propeller shaft. All Models: Slide the reverse gear onto the propeller shaft and seat it in the hous- ing. 25- Coat the propeller shaft with lubri— cant. Place the O-ring in position on the gearcase head. Slide the gearcase head down over the propeller shaft. Just before it reaches the lower unit surface, coat the O-ring with gasket sealer compound, and then secure the head to the lower unit with the attaching bolts. 26- Tighten the bolts ALTERNATELY and EVENLY to the torque value given in the Appendix. WW WATER PUMP INSTALLATION 27- Secure the lower unit in the vertical (normal) position. Slide the driveshaft down through the lower unit until it indexes with the pinion gear. If necessary, rotate the shaft slightly to allow the splines on the shaft to index with the splines in the pinion gear. 28- Apply OMC Sealer to both surfaces of both water pump gaskets. Place one gasket in position on the surface of the SHIFT NO DISCONNECT 8—33 gearcase cover. Place the water pump plate into position on the gasket with the rounded edge facing UPWARD. Place the second gasket in position on the top of the water pump plate. 29- Slide the impeller down the drive- shaft. Before it reaches the keyway in the shaft, insert the key in the keyway, and then slide the impeller down onto the surface of the water pump plate. 30— Coat the inside surface of the water pump housing with light-weight oil, and then slide the housing down the driveshaft and over the impeller. Rotate the driveshaft as the water pump housing is moved into place to allow the impeller blades to enter and lay back properly inside the housing. 31- Apply a coating of Loctite to the water pump bolt threads. Secure the water pump to the lower unit with the bolts. Tighten the bolts EVENLY and ALTER- NATELY to the torque value given in the EV 8-34 LOWER UNIT HATER PUMP HOUS ING is in the FORWARD gear position. This check can be accomplished by verifying the shift rod is turned tightly CLOCKWISE and that the unit is in forward gear. When the unit is in FORWARD gear, the flat portion of the shift rod will be in the same plane (fore-and-aft) as shown in the accompanying illustration, "A", when viewed from the Appendix. Slide the O-ring down the drive- PORT side. shaft and into place on top of the water copy . pump. Check to be sure the water pump tubes are clean, and then coat them with lubri- LOWER UNIT INSTALLATION cant. Coat the O-rings with oil. Coat the SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS Fill the lower unit with lubricant. Fol- low the procedures listed in Section 8-3. Install the propeller, see Section 8-2. Check to be sure the spark plug wires are disconnected from the plugs. Verify the shift handle is in the FORWARD gear posi- tion. Check to be sure the lower unit shift v 'i 35.: l g? fi x . . " x v u . 1 2 : ? V :‘ f e m splines of the driveshaft with OMC Moly- lube. 32- Bring the lower unit together with the exhaust housing, and at the same time guide the water tubes and the driveshaft through the openings in the exhaust housing. Bring the assembled lower unit and the exhaust housing together with the power- head, and at the same time guide the water tubes and the driveshaft into the place. Have an assistant slowly turn the propeller CLOCKWISE as the units are brought to- gether to allow the splines on the end of the driveshaft to index with the splines in the crankshaft. Check to be sure the end of the shift rod indexes into the shift handle gear. 33- Install the retaining bolts securing the lower unit to the exhaust housing. Two bolts are installed up through the lower unit cavitation plate on each side of the zinc. A third bolt is installed down through the forward leading edge of the exhaust housing. Tighten the bolts ALTERNATELY and EVENLY to the torque value given in the Appendix. Install a new zinc and secure it in place with the Phillips screw. TROUBLESHOOTING MANUAL SHIFT 8-35 FUNCTIONAL CHECK Perform a functional check of the com- pleted work by mounting the engine in a test tank, in a body of water, or with a flush attachment connected to the lower unit. If the flush attachment is used, NEVER oper- ate the engine above an idle speed, because the no-load condition on the propeller would allow the engine to RUNAWAY resulting in serious damage or destruction of the engine. CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the en- gine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump. Start the engine and observe the tattle- tale flow of water from idle relief in the exhaust housing. The water pump installa- tion work is verified. If a "Flushette" is connected to the lower unit, VERY LITTLE water will be visible from the idle relief port. Shift the engine into the three gears and check for smoothness of operation and satisfactory performance. 8—6 TROUBLESHOOTING MANUAL SHIFT 6.0 HP TO 40 HP ALL MODELS EXCEPT 35 HP WITH PROPELLER EXHAUST SPECIAL WORDS The troubleshooting procedures in this section may be performed for any of the lower units covered in Sections 8-7 or 8-8. Troubleshooting MUST be done BEFORE the unit is removed from the powerhead to permit isolating the problem to one area. Always attempt to proceed with trouble- shooting in an orderly manner. The shotgun approach will only result in wasted time, incorrect diagnosis, replacement of unnec- essary parts, and frustration. The following procedures are presented in a logical sequence with the most preva- lent, easiest, and less costly items to be checked listed first. Unable to Shift into Forward or Reverse Remove the propeller and check to de- termine if the shear pin has been broken, illustration A. If the unit being serviced has the shear pin at the rear of the propel- ler, the propeller should be removed and the 8-36 LOWER UNIT shear pin checked at the rear of the propel- ler shaft, illustration B. Check the Table of Contents for the horsepower and model year of the unit being serviced. Each section clearly outlines ex- actly how the shift disconnect is to be made. If the section indicates the power- head must be removed in order to check the shift mechanism, then the powerhead must be removed. if the unit has a window in the exhaust housing, then the window must be removed. Hold the shift rod with a pair of pliers and at the same time attempt to move the shift lever on the starboard side of the engine. If it is possible to move the shift lever, the bellcrank is worn, illustra- tion C. If the engine is the type requiring the lower unit to be lowered slightly to gain access to the shift rod, proceed as follows: Lower the lower unit slightly, and then hold the shift rod with a pair of pliers and attempt to move the shift lever on the starboard side of the engine. If the lever can move, the bellcrank is worn and must be repaired. Water in the Lower Unit Water in the lower unit is usually caused by fish line becoming entangled around the propeller shaft behind the propeller and damaging the propeller seal, illustration D. If the line is not removed, it will cut the .' “ ’ 2 . “ : { m m ,,. "')=(-7 ‘fik‘at. TANGLED . F i SHL 1 NE 9 9 “ ? ? ? ” .8, :9 propeller shaft seal and allow water to enter the lower unit. Fish line has also been known to cut a groove in the propeller shaft. The propeller should be removed each time the boat is hauled from the water at the end of an outing and any material en- tangled behind the propeller removed before it can cause expensive damage. The small amount of time and effort involved in pull— ing the propeller is repaid many times by reduced maintenance and service work, in- cluding the replacement of expensive parts, illustration E. Slippage in the Lower Unit If the shift seems to be slipping as the boat moves through the water: Check the propeller and the rubber hub, illustration F. If the propeller has been subjected to many strikes against underwater objects, it could slip on its hub. If the hub is damaged or excessively worn on the small propellers, it is not economical to have the hub or propel- ler rebuilt. A new propeller may be pur- chased for considerably less than meeting the expense of rebuilding an old worn pro— peller. Difficult Shifting Verify that the ignition switch is OFF, or better still, disconnect the spark plug wires RUBBER HUB TROUBLESHOOTING MANUAL SHIFT 8-37 from the plugs, to prevent possible personal injury, should the engine start. Shift the unit into REVERSE gear at the shift control box, and at the same time have an assistant turn the propeller shaft to ensure the clutch is fully engaged. If the shift handle is hard to move, the trouble may be in the lower unit, with the shift cable, or in the shift box, if used. Isolate the Problem: Disconnect the shift cable, if used, at the engine, illustration G. Operate the shift lever. If shifting is still hard, the problem is in the shift cable or control box, illustration H, see Chapter 7. If the shifting feels normal with the shift cable disconnected, the problem must be in the lower unit. To verify the problem is in the lower unit, have an assistant turn the propeller and at the same time move the shift cable back-and-forth. Determine if the clutch engages properly. SPEED RANGE NEUTRAL .-—--.. FAST k—J SLow jfii THROTI'LE {x it imitation { \ 1 F31 scnew ,x’\./* i FORWARD © © . IDLE STOP © © ® *—'—""— SHIFT RANGE—-F 8-38 LOWER UNIT Jumping out of Gear If a loud thumping sound is heard at the transom while the boat is underway, the unit is jumping out of gear, the propeller does not have a load, therefore the rushing water under the hull forces the lower unit in a backward direction. The unit jumps back into gear; the propeller catches hold; the lower unit is forced forward again, and the result is the thumping sound as the action is repeated. Normally this type of action occurs perhaps once a day, then more fre- quently each time the clutch is operated, until finally the unit will not stay in gear for even a short time. The following areas must be checked to locate the cause: 1- Check the Table of Contents for the horsepower and model year of the unit being serviced. Each section clearly outlines ex— actly how the shift disconnect is to be made. If the section indicates the power- head must be removed in order to check the shift mechanism, then the powerhead must be removed. if the unit has a window in the exhaust housing, then the window must be removed. Hold the shift rod with a pair of pliers and at the same time attempt to move the shift lever on the starboard side of the engine. If it is possible to move the shift lever, the bellcrank is worn. If the engine is the type requiring the lower unit to be lowered slightly to gain access to the shift rod: Lower the lower unit slightly, and then hold the shift rod with a pair of pliers and attempt to move BELLCRANK SH I FT CABLE the shift lever on the starboard side of the engine. If the lever can move, the bellcrank is damaged and must be repaired. 2- Disconnect the shift cable at the en- gine. Attempt to shift the unit into forward gear with the shift lever on the starboard side of the engine and at the same time rotate the propeller in an effort to shift into gear. Shift the control lever at the control box into forward gear. Move the shift cable at the engine up to the shift handle and determine if the cable is properly aligned. The control lever may have jumped a tooth on the slider or on the shift lever arc. If a tooth has been jumped, the cable would lose its adjustment and the unit would fail to shift properly. If the inner cable should slip on the end cable guide, the adjustment would be lost. 3- Move the shift lever at the engine into the neutral position and the shift lever at the control box to the neutral position. Now, move the shift cable up to the shift lever and see if it is aligned. Shift the unit into reverse at the engine and shift the control lever at the control box into re- verse. Move the cable up and see if it is aligned. If the cable is properly aligned, but the unit still jumps out of gear when the cable is connected, one of three conditions may exist. a— The bellcrank is worn excessively or damaged. b- The shift rod connector is misaligned. This connector is used to link the upper shift rod with the lower rod. If the connector has not been ‘installed properly, any shifting will be difficult. c- Parts in the lower unit are worn from extended use. Frozen Powerhead This condition is suggested when the operator unsuccessfully attempts to crank the engine, either with a hand starter or with a starter motor. The flywheel will not rotate. Do not assume the engine is "froz- en" until the lower unit has been removed and thoroughly checked. If the lower unit is "locked" (the driveshaft or propeller shaft will not rotate), the powerhead will have the indication of being "frozen" (failure to ro— tate the flywheel). The first step to perform under these conditions is to "pull" the lower unit, and then again attempt to crank the engine. If the attempt is successful with the lower unit disconnected, the problem is in the lower unit. If the attempt to crank the engine is still unsuccessful, the problem is in the powerhead, illustration J. MANUAL SHIFT 6.0 T0 25 HP 8-39 8-7 LOWER UNIT SERVICE MANUAL SHIFT 6.0 HP — 1971-79 9.5 HP TO 20 HP — 1971-73 25 HP — 1971-85 Propeller Removal Remove the propeller according to the detailed procedures outlined in Section 8-2. Draining Lower Unit Drain the lower unit according to the detailed procedures outlined in Section 8-3. Shift Rod Disconnect Three different shift rod connection ar- rangements may be encountered on the en- gines covered in this manual. The following three paragrpahs describe the connections and how they are to be handled for removal of the lower unit. The horsepower and model years are also given for each. Pin in Upper Driveshaft Used on All 6 hp Engines — 1971-79 "Pin in the upper driveshaft", means that the pin holds and pushes the seal and spring assembly against the powerhead and thus provides a bottom seal for the powerhead. After the lower unit attaching bolts have been removed, the flywheel must be rotated (to rotate the driveshaft) until the pin is aligned with two slots in the upper portion of the exhaust housing, illustration A. The lower housing can then be separated from 8-40 LOWER UNIT the exhaust housing. If an attempt is made to force the lower unit from the exhaust housing without aligning the driveshaft pin, as just described, the pin may be broken and other items damaged. Loosen the at- taching screws securing’the lower unit to the exhaust housing. Allow the lower unit to drop approximately one inch, and then remove the bottom bolt in the shift con- nector illustration B. The lower unit may then be completely separated from the ex- haust housing, illustration C. Shift Disconnect Connector Used on All 9.5 hp Engine — 1971-73 These units do not have the pin in the driveshaft. Loosen the attaching screws securing the lower unit to the exhaust hous- ing. Allow the lower unit to drop approx- imately one inch, and then remove the bot— tom bolt in the shift connector, illustation .B. The lower unit may then be completely separated from the exhaust housing, illus- tration C. Window Removal To Gain Access 18 hp and 20 hp Engines —- 1971-73 25 hp Engines 1971-85 Remove the metal plate from the port side of the engine. Access to the shift connector is gained through the opening. Disconnect the shift rod from the ex- haust housing by removing the bottom bolt from the shift connector, illustration D. 2' ' h i' ‘l ' {my/g}?! a )‘V In MOST cases, if any unit being serviced has the 6-inch extension, it is NOT neces- sary to remove the extension in order to "drop" the lower unit. However, as in most things in life, there are rare exceptions and here is one. If the lower unit is separated from the extension and the driveshaft con- nection is not accessible, then the extension will have to be removed to gain access to the coupler. LOWER UNIT REMOVAL 1- After the shift rod has been discon- nected, as described in the previous para- graphs, remove the bolts securing the lower unit to the housing. Some units may have an SHIFT ' n; SCONNECT additional bolt on each side and one at the rear of the engine. Work the lower unit loose from the exhaust housing. It is not uncommon for the water tube to be stuck in the water pump making separation of the lower unit from the exhaust housing diffi- cult. However, with patience and persist- ence, the tube will come free of the pump and the lower unit separated from the ex- haust housing. MORE GOOD WORDS Position the lower unit in a vertical position on the edge of the work bench resting on the cavitation plate. Secure the lower unit in this position with a C-clamp. The lower unit will then be held firmly in a favorable position for further service work. An alternate method is to cut a groove in a short piece of 2" x 6" wood to accommodate the lower unit with the cavitation plate resting on top of the wood. Clamp the wood in a vise and service work may then be performed with the lower unit erect (in its normal position), or inverted (upside down). In both positions, the cavitation plate is the supporting surface. 2- Remove the O-ring from the top of the driveshaft. Some units may have a pin installed in this location, instead of an 0- ring. In this case, remove the pin from the driveshaft. The washer, springs, and other parts will have remained in the exhaust housing. WATER PUMP REMOVAL 3- Remove the screws securing the wa- ter pump to the lower unit housing. It is very possible corrosion will cause the screw heads to break-off when an attempt to re- move them is made. If this should happen, RETAINING . BOLT MANUAL SHIFT 6.0 T0 25 HP 8-1” use a chisel and breakaway the water pump housing from the lower unit. EXERCISE CARE not to damage the lower unit housing. 4- After the screws have been removed, slide the water pump, impeller, the impeller key, and the lower water pump plate, up- ward and free of the driveshaft.
