By David Reed
Most of the data and discussions which follows is taken directly or paraphrased from the
Sierra Rifle Reloading Manual 3rd Edition. I have many books and manuals but Sierra's is
by far the best. If you do not have this manual then I urge you to get it. All reloading
manuals contain extensive disclaimers and Sierra's is no exception.
I am providing this information because I have not found it elsewhere on the Web. It would
take days to convert all of their data to HTML and it would be full of errors, piss them off,
and keep you from buying their book! These pages should not be considered a worthwhile
substitute for their manual. They do good work and I encourage you to support them by
buying their manual. I think I paid around $34.95 US for it and as I mentioned, it is my
favorite. Speer, Nosler, and Hornady also have good references. When I need data, I usually
compare all of them.
I've tried many bullets and can't honestly say that any brand is better than any other for my
purposes. My .300 Win. drops everything I shoot with it. I have favorite bullets for each rifle
that I own. It might surprise you to know that one of my guns shoots 180gr round nose
bullets better than any other bullet I've tried! Don't be to quick to assume that a match grade
bullet will fly better than others in any particular rifle. Bullet weight has a lot to do with it.
(See section on rifle tuning where I discuss harmonics.) Try them all and decide for yourself.
When the manufacturer recommends a bullet for a particular purpose don't try to read to
much between the lines. A hollow point bullet is designed to expand rapidly, but if you are
shooting whitetail with a .300 that is not a disadvantage! And now, on to exterior ballistics .
z Ballistic Coefficient
z Altitude and Humidity
z Uphill/Downhill Shooting
z Wind Effects
Rather than try to calculate ballistics for every bullet made, it is easier to compare the
ballistics potential of the b