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SERVICE MANUAL 1971-1989 1-60HP TABLE OF CONTENTS 1 SAFETY HEAD SERVICE 3-5 INTRODUCTION 1-1 REgZSiEi‘t'ilocf 3:; CLEANING, WAXING, POLISHING l-l Reed Valve Ad'ustment 3-8 CONTROLLING CORROSION 1-2 Cl . J . eanlng and SerVIce 3-9 PROPELLERS 1'2 Installation 3-10 FUEL SYSTEM 1-7 LOADING 1'9 BYPASS COVERS 3-10 HORSEPOWER 1'10 Installation 3-11 FLOTATION l-lO EMERGENCY EQUIPMENT l-12 EXHAUST COVER 3_11 COMPASS 1'15 Cleanin 3-12 8 ANCHORS 1‘17 Installation 3-12 MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT 1-18 TOP SEAL 343 BOATING ACCIDENT REPORTS 1-19 NAVIGATION 1—19 Remm’al. 3'13 Installation 3-13 BOTTOM SEAL 3-114 Inspection 3-14 2 TUNING CENTERING PINS 3-15 MAIN BEARING BOLTS INTRODUCTION 2-1 AND CRANKCASE SIDE BOLTS 3-15 TUNE-UP SEQUENCE 2-2 Installation 3-16 COMPRESSION CHECK 2-3 CRANKCASE COVER 3-16 SPARK PLUG INSPECTION 2—4 Removal 3-16 IGNITION SYSTEM 2-5 Cleaning and Inspection 3-16 SYNCHRONIZING 2-5 BATTERY SERVICE 2-6 CONNECTING RODS AND PISTONS 3-17 CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS 2—8 Removal 3-18 FUEL PUMPS 2-9 Disassembling 3-18 STARTER AND SOLENOID 10 Rod Inspection and Service 3-21 INTERNAL WIRING HARNESS ll Piston and Ring Inspection WATER PUMP CHECK 11 and Service 3-23 PROPELLERS 12 Assembling 3-25 LOWER UNIT 13 CRANKSHAFT 3-27 BOAT TESTING 11+ Removal 3-27 Cleaning and Inspection 3-29 CYLINDER BLOCK SERVICE 3-30 3 POWERHEAD Honing Procedures 3-30 Assembling 3-32 INTRODUCTION Piston and Rod Installation 3-32 Theory of Operation Crankshaft Installation CHAPTER ORGANIZATION Needle Main and POWERHEAD DISASSEMBLING Rod Bearings 3-35 3 POWERHEAD (CONT) TYPE IV CARBURETOR 4-39 Removal 4-39 Crankshaft Installation Disassembling 4-41 With Top Needle Main Brg. Cleaning and Inspecting 4-42 and Babbitt Ctr. 6c Bottom Assembling 4-46 With Top 6c Bottom Needle Installation 4-49 Brg. and Ctr. Babbitt Brg. With All Babbitt Main Brgs. 3-38 FUEL PUMP SERVICE 4-51 Crankshaft Installation Removal and Installation 4-51 Babbitt Main and Cleaning and Inspecting 4-51 Rod Bearings 3-39 Crankcase Cover Installation 3-40 FUEL TANK SERVICE 4-53 Main Bearing Bolt and Crankcase Side Bolt Instl. 3-41 ELECTRIC PRIMER CHOKE 4-55 Bottom Seal Installation 3-42 Reed Box Installation 3-43 MANUAL PRIMER CHOKE 4-55 Head Installation 3-44 BREAK-IN PROCEDURES 3-44 OIL INJECTION SYSTEMS 4-57 VRO Oil Inject. 4-57 AccuMix (AutoBlend) 4-62 4 FUEL INTRODUCTION 4-1 GENERAL CARBURETION INFORMATION 4-1 FUEL SYSTEM 4-3 5 IGNITION TROUBLESHOOTING 14-4 Fuel Pump Tests 4-5 INTRODUCTION 5-1 Fuel Line Test 4-6 SPARK PLUG EVALUATION 5-2 Rough Engine Idle 4-8 POLARITY CHECK 5-3 Excessive Fuel Consumption 4-8 WIRING HARNESS 5-4 Engine Surge 4-9 FLYWHEEL MAGNETO IGNITION JOHNSON/EVINRUDE 1.25 hp -- 1987 dc on CARBURETORS 4—9 2 hp -- 1971-86 TYPE I CARBURETOR 4-11 2.5 hp -- 1987 (SC on Removal 4-11 4 hp -- 1971-84 Disassembling 4-12 6 hp -- 1971-76 Cleaning and Inspecting 4-13 9.5 hp -- 1971-73 Assembling 4-15 18 hp -- 1971-73 Installation 4-18 20 hp --1971-72 25 hp -- 1971-72 CHOKE SYSTEM SERVICE 4-19 40 hp -- 1971-73 5-5 ALL ELECTRIC CHOKE REMOVAL 4-20 TYPE 11 CARBURETOR 14-21 TROUBLESHOOTING 5-6 Disassembling £1-21 Wiring Harness 5-8 Cleaning and Inspecting 4-23 Key Switch 5-8 Assembling 4-25 Compression 5-10 Adjustments £4-30 Condenser 5-11 Breaker Points 5-12 TYPE III CARBURETOR 4-31 Removal 11-31 SERVICING FLYWHEEL MAGNETO Disassembling 4—32 IGNITION SYSTEM 5-13 Cleaning and Inspecting 4-33 Removal -' 5-13 Assembling 4-35 Cleaning and Inspecting 5-19 Installation 4-37 Assembling 5-20 LOW TENSION FLYWHEEL MAGNETO IGNITION SYSTEM 9.9 hp -- 1974-76 15 hp -- 1974-76 13 hp —— 1973 20 hp -- 1973 25 hp -- 1973-76 35 hp -— 1976 40 hp -- 1974-76 40 hp Comm. -- 1981-83 Description Theory of Operation Troubleshooting Removal Cleaning and Inspecting Assembling TYPE I CAPACITOR DISCHARGE (CD) FLYWHEEL MAGNETO WITH TIMER BASE Flywheel Removal Armature Plate Removal Armature Plate Installation Charge or Sensor Coil Removal Charge or Sensor Coil Installation Charge or Sensor Coil Adjustment Flywheel Installation Power Pack Replacement Timing Check Adjustment SYNCHRONIZATION FUEL AND IGNITION SYSTEMS Primary Pickup Adjustments and Locations ' The No. A Location The No. B Location The No. C Location 50 hp -- 1971-75 The No. D Location 5-74 5 55 hp -- 1976-77 5-41 The No. E Location -75 Description 5-41 Theory of Operation 5-41 Troubleshooting 5-42 6 ELECTRICAL Servicing 5-48 Stator and Charge Coil INTRODUCTION 6-1 Replacement BATTERIES 6-1 Timer Base and Sensor Marine Batteries 6-1 Assembly Replacement Battery Construction 6-2 Power Pack Replacement Battery Ratings 6-2 Timing Check and Adjustment Battery Location 6-2 Battery‘ Service 6-2 TYPE II CD FLYWHEEL MAGNETO Jumper Cables 6-5 IGNITION WITH SENSOR COIL Storage 6-5 2.5 hp -- 1987 6( on Dual Battery Installation 6-5 4 hp Dlx. -- 1984 6( on GAUGES AND HORNS 6-7 4.5 hp -- 1980-85 Constant Voltage System 6-7 5 hp -- 1984-85 Temperature Gauges 6-7 6 hp -- 1977-79 Warning Lights 6-7 6 hp -- 1982 6c on Thermomelt Sticks 6-8 7.5 hp -- 1980-85 FUEL SYSTEM 6-8 8 hp -- 1984 6( on Fuel Gauge 6-8 9.9 hp -- 1977 6( on Fuel Gauge Hookup 6-8 15 hp -- 1977 6c on Fuel Gauge Troubleshooting 6-9 20 hp —- 1981 6c on TACHOMETER 6-10 25 hp -- 1977 6t on HORNS ' 6-10 30 hp -- 1985 6c on 35 hp -- 1977-84 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 40 hp -- 1984 8c on GENERAL INFORMATION 6-11 50 hp -- 1978 at on GENERATING CHARGING 55 hp -- 1978-83 CIRCUIT SERVICE 6-12 60 hP -- 1980-85 5-51 Troubleshooting 6-13 Description 5-51 Removal and Disassembling 6-16 Theory of Operation 5-52 Armature Testing 6-17 Troubleshooting 5-54 Cleaning and Inspecting 6-18 Checking Type II System 5-55 Assembling 6-20 6 ELECTRICAL (CONT) ALTERNATOR CHARGING CIRCUIT SERVICE Troubleshooting CHOKE CIRCUIT SERVICE STARTER MOTOR CIRCUIT SERVICE Circuit Description Starter Motor Description Testing STARTER DRIVE GEAR SERVICE Disassembling Type I Cleaning and Inspecting Assembling Type I Disassembling Type 11 Cleaning and Inspecting Assembling Type II BOSCH STARTER MOTOR SERVICE6-33 Removal Disassembling Armature Testing Cleaning and Inspecting Assembling PRESTOLITE SERVICE Removal Disassembling Armature Testing Cleaning and Inspecting Assembling STARTER MOTOR TESTING STARTER MOTOR INSTALLATION 7 REMOTE CONTROLS INTRODUCTION SHIFT BOXES DOUBLE-LEVER SHIFT BOX SERVICE Troubleshooting Removal Disassembling Cleaning and Inspecting Assembling ELECTRIC GEAR BOXES AND SINGLE LEVER CONTROL Troubleshooting 6-33 6-34 6-34 6-35 6-37 I -D¢#-D¢<P-D4? O\\.n<P4?N'—OO O\O\O\?\O\O\O\O\ SINGLE LEVER SHIFT BOX SERVICE JOHNSON UNITS ONLY Disassembling Cleaning and Inspecting Assembling 7-10 7-10 7-11 7-12 PUSHBUTTON TYPE SHIFT BOX SERVICE -- EVINRUDE ONLY Troubleshooting Disassembling Cleaning and Inspecting Assembling SINGLE-LEVER REMOTE CONTROL SHIFT BOX Troubleshooting Disassembling Assembling SHIFT BOX REPAIR Disassembling Cleaning and Inspecting Assembling 7-20 7-21 7-22 7-23 7-26 7-26 7-27 7-27 CABLE END FITTING INSTALLATION AT THE ENGINE END FOR ALL SHIFT BOXES EXCEPT SINGLE LEVER REMOTE CONTROL 8 LOWER UNIT DESCRIPTION Chapter Coverage Illustrations PROPELLER SERVICE Propeller with Shear Pin Removal Exhaust Propeller Removal Propeller with Shear Pin Installation Exhaust Propeller Installation LOWER UNIT LUBRICATION Draining Filling NO SHIFT LOWER UNIT SERVICE 1.25 to 4.0 HP 1971 (St on Description Troubleshooting Removal Water Pump Removal Lower Unit Disassembling Cleaning and Inspecting Assembling Water Pump Installation Lower Unit Installation Filling Lower Unit Propeller Installation SHIFT WITH NO DISCONNECT ll DELUX THRU 8 HP l980-‘85 Description Removal 7-2 9 000000?00000000 M ‘ P W W W U ’ N H OOOOtiOOOOO OOVVmUI Water Pump Disassembling 8-18 PROPELLER EXHAUST Lower Unit Disassembling 8-19 MECHANICAL SHIFT Cleaning and Inspecting 8-23 35 HP 1976-8‘4 Lower Unit Assembling 8-26 20 HP 19711 (St on Water Pump Installation 8-33 25 HP 1986 & on Lower Unit Installation 8-34 30 HP 1981 (St on 8-88 Functional Check 8-35 Description 8-88 Troubleshooting 8-88 Lower Unit Removal 8-91 TROUBLESHOOTING Water Pump Removal 8-93 MANUAL SHIFT 6.0 to 140 HP Lower Unit Disassembling 8-93 ALL MODELS EXCEPT 35 HP Cleaning and Inspecting 8-99 WITH PROPELLER EXHAUST 8-35 Lower Unit Assembling 8-100 Water Pump Installation 8-110 Lower Unit Installation 8-112 Functional Check 8-114 LOWER UNIT SERVICE MANUAL SHIFT ELECTRIC SHIFT 6.0 HP 1971-79 TWO SOLENOIDS 9.5 HP to 20 HP -- 1971-73 50 HP 1971-72 8-114 25 HP 1971-85 8-39 Description 8-114 Shift Rod Disconnect 8-39 Troubleshooting 8-115 Lower Unit Removal 8-40 Lower Unit Removal 8-ll7 Water Pump Removal 8-41 Water Pump Removal 8-118 Lower Unit Disassembling 8-42 "Frozen" Propeller Shaft 8-121 Cleaning and Inspecting 8-44 Cleaning and Inspecting 8-125 Lower Unit Assembling 8-48 Lower Unit Assembling 8-127 Water Pump Installation 8-52 Water Pump Installation 8-137 Lower Unit Installation 8-53 Lower Unit Installation 8-140 Functional Check 8-55 Functional Check 8-141 LOWER UNIT SERVICE MECHANICAL SHIFT MANUAL SHIFT 40 HP THRU 1976 8-56 HYDRAULIC ASSIST Lower Unit Removal 8-56 SHIFT DISCONNECT UNDER Water Pump Removal 8-57 LOWER CARBURETOR Lower Unit Disassembling 8-57 50 HP 1973-7“ 8-142 Cleaning and Inspecting 8-60 Description 8-1/42 Lower Unit Assembling 8-61: Troubleshooting 8-142 Water Pump Installation 8-67 Lower Unit Removal 8-14 5 Lower Unit Installation 8-68 Water Pump Removal 8-145 Functional Check 8-69 "Frozen" Propeller Shaft 8-148 Cleaning and Inspecting 8-156 Lower Unit Assembling 8-156 PROPELLER EXHAUST Water Pump Installation 8-167 MECHANICAL SHIFT Lower Unit Installation 8-170 9.9 HP 1974 <5: on Functional Check 8-171 15 HP 1974 dc on - Description _ MECHANICAL SHIFT Troubleshooting - SHIFT DISCONNECT UNDER LOWER CARBURETOR 40 HP 1977 fit on 50 HP 1972-73 50 HP 1975 and 1980 (Sc on 55 HP 1975-83 . 60 HP 1980 6: on 8-l7l Lower Unit Removal Water Pump Removal Lower Unit Disassembling Cleaning and Inspecting Lower Unit Assembling OOOOOOOOOOOIOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOVVVVVVV WVmOwaNOOO Water Pump Installation - . . Lower Unit Installation - Description 8-171 Functional Check - Troubleshooting 8-171 8 LOWER UNIT (CONT) Lower Unit Removal 8-173 Water Pump Removal 8-175 "Frozen" Propeller Shaft 8-178 Cleaning and Inspecting 8-182 Lower Unit Assembling 8-185 Water Pump Installation 8-193 Lower Unit Installation 8-196 "FROZEN" PROPELLER 8-197 9 HAND STARTERS INTRODUCTION 9-1 Emergency Star ting 9-3 TYPEI STARTER CYLINDER WITH PINION GEAR A11 5 HP All 6 HP All 7.5 HP A11 8 HP 9-# Starter Rope Replacement 9-4 Removal 9-4 Installation 9-5 Starter Removal 9-5 Disassembling 9-7 Cleaning and Inspecting 9-7 Assembling 9-8 TYPE II STARTER CYLINDER WITH PINION GEAR All 9.5 HP 9-11 Rope Removal 9-11 Rope Installation 9-12 Starter Removal 9—12 Cleaning and Inspecting 9-14 Assembling 9-15 Installation 9-15 TYPE III STARTER COIL SPRING WITH SWING ARM VERTICAL MOUNT 4 HP 1971-78 l1 HP DELUX 1982 6c on 4.5 HP 1980-84 9—17 Removal 9-17 Disassembling 9-18 Cleaning and Inspecting 9-19 Assembling 9-20 TYPE IV STARTER COIL SPRING WITH SLIDING GEAR HORIZONTAL MOUNT All 9.9 HP All 15 HP 9-23 Removal 9-23 Starter Rope Replacement 9-24 10 Starter Disassembling 9-27 Cleaning and Inspecting 9-29 Assembling 9-29 Installation 9-30 Adjustment 9-31 TYPE V MOUNTED ATOP FLYWHEEL WITH NO RETURN SPRINGS ‘10 HP -- 1971-76 6c 1981-85 9-32 Removal 9-33 Cleaning and Inspecting 9-34 Assembling 9-36 Rope Installation 9-37 Starter Installation 9-39 TYPE VI MOUNTED ATOP FLYWHEEL WITH ONE OR TWO NYLON PAWLS COLT, JUNIOR, 6: ULTRA 1986 6c on 2 HP 1971-85 2.5 HP 1987 8c on it HP 1980 éc on 18 HP 1971—73 20 HP 1971-73, 1985 6c on 25 HP 1971 6( on 35 HP 1976-84 9 #1 Starter Removal 9 41 Disassembling 9 41 Cleaning and Inspecting 9-43 Starter Assembling 9 44 Rope Installation 9 4 Starter Installation 9 4 TYPE VII MOUNTED ATOP FLYWHEEL WITH LARGE PAWL PLATE Starter Removal 9-48 Disassembling 9-48 Cleaning and Inspecting 9-49 Starter Assembling 9-49 Starter Installation 9-50 POWER TRIM/TILT SYSTEM DESCRIPTION 10-1 FILLING SYSTEM 10-2 TROUBLESHOOTING 10-2 SERVICING 10-3 ELECTRICAL MOTOR SERVICE 10-3 Cleaning «Sc Inspecting 10-4 Testing 10-4 l l MAINTENANCE INTRODUCTION 11-1 ENGINE SERIAL NUMBERS 11-2 FIBERGLASS HULLS ll-3 ALUMINUM HULLS 11-3 BELOW WATERLINE SERVICE 11-4 SUBMERGED ENGINE SERVICE ll-5 WINTER STORAGE 11-7 LOWER UNIT SERVICE 11-9 Propellers 11-9 BATTERY STORAGE ll-llI PRESEASON PREPARATION ll-l5 APPENDIX METRIC CONVERSION CHART A-l DRILL SIZE CONVERSION CHART A-2 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS A-3 TUNE—UP SPECIFICATIONS A-4 to A-l7 POWERHEAD SPECIFICATIONS A-l8 OIL/FUEL MIXTURE A-l9 GEAR OIL CAPACITIES A-l9 STARTER MOTOR SPECS. A-ZO REGULATOR SPECIFICATIONS A-ZO GENERATOR SPECIFICATIONS A-20 CONDENSER SPECIFICATIONS A-Zl STARTER ROPE SPECIFICATIONS A-Zl WIRE IDENTIFICATION DRAWINGS Typical l-cylinder pwrhd. A-22 2.5 hp, Excel, Ultra, 6c 14 hp -- 1984 6: on A-23 l4 Delux thru 55 hp w/CD II Ign., w/manual start; Also models equipped with A.C. lighting A-le 9.9 hp and 15 hp w/electric start -- 1974-76 9.9 hp and 15 hp w/electric start -- 1977-85 9.9 hp and 15 hp w/electric start -- 1986 6: on 18 hp, 20 hp, 6( 25 hp w/electric start -- 1971-72 18 hp, 20 hp, 6( 25 hp w/electric start -- 1973-76 35 hp w/electric start -- 1976 25 hp and 35 hp -- 1977-78 20 hp thru 40 hp w/std. shift & w/electric start 1979-85 #0 hp w/generator, w/std. shift 6c w/electric start -- 1971-73 40 hp w/alternator, w/std. shift 6: w/electric start -- 1974-76 50 hp w/alternator 6c w/electric start -- 1971-72 50 hp w/alternator 6c w/electric start -- 1973-77 Also 55 hp with no thermo switch — 1977 50 hp w/manual Start -- 1980-85 55 hp w/electric start -- 1977 50 hp 6: 55 hp w/electric start -- 1978 50 hp -- 1979, 55 hp -- 1979-83, 6: 60 hp -- 1980-81 all w/electric start 20 hp, 25 hp, 30 hp, 35 hp, 40 hp, 50 hp, and 60 hp w/remote electric start -- 1982-85 40 hp 6( 50 hp w/tiller electric start -- 1986 (Sc on 110 hp 6c 50 hp w/remote electric start -- 1986 (St on Remote Control Box A-25 A-26 A-27 A-28 A-29 A-3O A-31 A-32 A-33 A-34 A-35 A-36 A-37 A-38 A-39 A-QO A-Ql A-42 A-43 A—aa l SAFETY l-l INTRODUCTION Today, a boat and power unit represents a sizeable investment for the owner. In order to protect this investment and to receive the maximum amount of enjoyment from the boat, it must be cared for properly while being used and when it is out of the water. Always store the boat with the bow higher than the stern and be sure to remove the transom drain plug and the inner hull drain plugs. If any type cover is used to protect the boat, plastic, canvas, whatever, be sure to allow for some movement of air through the hull. Proper ventilation will assure evaporation of any condensation due to changes in temperature and humidity. 1-2 CLEANING, WAXING, AND POLISHING An outboard boat should be washed with clear water after each use to remove sur- face dirt and any salt deposits from use in salt water. Regular rinsing will extend the time between waxing and polishing. It will also give you "pride of ownership", by having a sharp looking piece of equipment. Elbow grease, a mild detergent, and a brush .v‘ 11. , ‘S‘ M. .. tr Whenever the boat is stored, for long or short periods, the bow should be slightly higher than the stern and the drain plug in the transom removed to ensure proper drainage of rain water. will be required to remove stubborn dirt, oil, and other unsightly deposits. Stay away from harsh abrasives or strong chemical cleaners. A white buffing com- pound can be used to restore the original gloss to a scratched, dull, or faded area. The finish of your boat should be thoroughly cleaned, buffed, and polished at least once each season. Take care when buffing or polishing with a marine cleaner not to over- heat the surface you are working, because you will burn it. A small outboard engine mounted on an aluminum boat should be removed from the boat and stored separately. Under all cir- cumstances, any outboard engine must AL- WAYS be stored with the powerhead higher than the lower unit and exhaust system. This position will prevent water trapped in the lower unit from draining back through the exhaust ports into the powerhead. .161»: (g4. 21' .3... aw°W-{.._. 1 * Lower unit badly corzroded_because the zinc was not replaced. Once the zinc is destroyed, more costly parts will be damaged. Attention to the zinc condition is extremely important during boot operation in salt water. I—2 SAFETY A new zinc prior to installation. This inexpensive item will save corrosion on more valuable parts. Most outboard engines have a flat area on the back side of the powerhead. When the engine is placed with the flat area on the powerhead and the lower unit resting on the floor, the engine will be in the proper altitude with the powerhead higher than the lower unit. 1-3 CONTROLLING CORROSION Since man first started out on the water, corrosion on his craft has been his enemy. The first form was merely rot in the wood and then it was rust, followed by other forms of destructive corrosion in the more modern materials. One defense against cor- rosion is to use similar metals throughout the boat. Even though this is difficult to do in designing a new boat, particularily the undersides, similar metals should be used whenever and wherever possible. A second defense against corrosion is to insulate dissimilar metals. This can be done by using an exterior coating of Sea Skin or by insulating them with plastic or rubber gaskets. Using Zinc The proper amount of zinc attached to a boat is extremely important. The use of too much zinc can cause wood burning by plac- ing the metals close together and they be- come "hot". On the other hand, using too D [METER Diameter and pitch are the two basic dimensions of a propeller. The diameter is measured across the circumference of a circle scribed by the propeller blades, as shown. small a zinc plate will cause more rapid deterioration of the the metal you are try- ing to protect. If in doubt, consider the fact that it is far better to replace the zincs than to replace planking or other expensive metal parts from having an excess of zinc. When installing zinc plates, there are two routes available. One is to install many different zincs on all metal parts and thus run the risk of wood burning. Another route, is to use one large zinc on the tran- som of the boat and then connect this zinc to every underwater metal part through internal bonding. Of the two choices, the one zinc on the transom is the better way to go. Small outboard engines have a zinc plate attached to the cavitation plate. Therefore, the zinc remains with the engine at all times. 1-4 PROPELLERS As you know, the propeller is actually what moves the boat through the water. This is how it is done. The propeller oper- ates in water in much the manner as a wood screw does in wood. The propeller "bites" into the. water as it rotates. Water passes between the blades and out to the rear in the shape of a cone. The propeller "biting" through the water in much the same manner as a wood auger is what propels the boat. WPROPELLER a Propeller and associated parts in order, washer, shear pin, and nut, ready for installation. Arrangement of propeller (md associated parts, in order, for a small horsepower engine. Diameter and Pitch Only two dimensions of the propeller are of real interest to the boat owner: the diameter and the pitch. These two dimen- sions are stamped on the propeller hub and always appear in the same order: the diam- eter first and then the pitch. For instance, the number 15-19 stamped on the hub, would mean the propeller had a diameter of 15 inches with a pitch of 19. The diameter is the measured distance from the tip of one blade to the tip of the other as shown in the accompanying illus- tration. The pitch of a propeller is the angle at which the blades are attached to the hub. This figure is expressed in inches of water travel for each revolution of the propeller. In our example of a 15-19 propeller, the propeller should travel 19 inches through the water each time it revolves. If the propel- ler action was perfect and there was no slippage, then the pitch multiplied by the propeller rpms would be the boat speed. Most outboard manufacturers equip their units with a standard propeller with a diam- eter and pitch they consider to be best suited to the engine and the boat. Such a propeller allows the engine to run as near to the rated rpm and horsepower (at full throt- tle) as possible for the boat design. The blade area of the propeller deter- mines its load-carrying capacity. A two- blade propeller is used for high-speed run- ning under very light loads. PROPELLERS l-3 Shear pin installed behind the propeller instead of in front of the propeller. A four-blade propeller is installed in boats intended to operate at low speeds under very heavy loads such as tugs, barges, or large houseboats. The three-blade pro- peller is the happy medium covering the wide range between the high performance units and the load carrying workhorses. :0peller Selection There is no standard propeller that will do the proper job in very many cases. The list of sizes and weights of boats is almost endless. This fact coupled with the many ‘ boat-engine combinations makes the propel— ler selection for a specific purpose a diffi- cult job. In fact, in many cases the propel- ler is changed after a few test runs. Proper selection is aided through the use of charts set up for various engines and boats. These charts should be studied and understood when buying a propeller. However, bear in mind, the charts are based on average boats 13” —— ‘ !: 10" > Diagram to explain the pitch dimension of a propeller. The pitch is the theoretical distance a propeller would travel through the water if there was no slippage. I-ll SAFETY with average loads, therefore, it may be necessary to make a change in size or pitch, in order to obtain the desired results for the hull design or load condition. A wide range of pitch is available for each of the larger horsepower engines. The choice available for the smaller engines, up to about 25 hp, is restricted to one or two sizes. Remember, a low pitch takes a smaller bite of the water than the high pitch propeller. This means the low pitch propel- ler will travel less distance through the water per revolution. The low pitch will require less horsepower and will allow the engine to run faster and more efficiently. It stands to reason, and it's true, that the high pitch propeller will require more horse- power, but will give faster boat speed if the engine is allowed to turn at its rated rpm. If a higher-pitched propeller is installed on a boat, in an effort to get more speed, extra horsepower will be required. If the extra power is not available, the rpms will be reduced to a less efficient level and the actual boat speed will be less than if the lower-pitched propeller had been left in- stalled. All engine manufacturers design their units to operate with full throttle at, or slightly above, the rated rpm. If you run your engine at the rated rpm, you will increase spark plug life, receive better fuel economy, and obtain the best performance CAVI TATION BURN BUBB LES Cavitation (air bubbles) formed at the propeller. Manufacturers are constantly fighting this problem, as explained in the text. from your boat and engine. Therefore, take time to make the proper propeller selection for the rated rpm of your engine at full throttle with what you consider to be an average load. Your boat will then be cor- rectly balanced between engine and pro- peller throughout the entire speed range. A reliable tachometer must be used to measure engine speed at full throttle to ensure the engine will achieve full horse- power and operate efficiently and safely. To test for the correct propeller, make your run in a body of smooth water with the lower unit in forward gear at full throttle. Observe the tachometer at full throttle. NEVER run the engine at a high rpm when a flush attachment is installed. If the reading is above the manufacturer's recom— mended operating range, you must try pro- pellers of greater pitch, until you find the one that allows the engine to operate continually within the recommended full throttle range. If the engine is unable to deliver top performance and you feel it is properly tuned, then the propeller may not be to blame. Operating conditions have a marked effect on performance. For instance, an engine will lose rpm when run in very cold water. It will also lose rpm when run in salt water as compared with fresh water. A hot, low-barometer day will also cause your en- gine to lose power. A corroded hub on a small engine propeller. Re- placement of this propeller will be less expensive than the cost of a rebuild. Ventilation Ventilation is the forming of voids in the water just ahead of the propeller blades. Marine propulsion designers are constantly fighting the battle against the formation of these voids due to excessive blade tip speed and engine wear. The voids may be filled with air or water vapor, or they may actual- ly be a partial vacuum. Ventilation may be caused by installing a piece of equipment too close to the lower unit, such as the knot indicator pickup, depth sounder, or bait tank pickup. Vibration Your propeller should be checked reg- ularly to be sure all blades are in good condition. If any of the blades become bent or nicked, this condition will set up vibra- tions in the drive unit and the motor. If the vibration becomes very serious it will cause a loss of power, efficiency, and boat perfor- mance. If the vibration is allowed to con- tinue over a period of time it can have a damaging effect on many of the operating parts. Vibration in boats can never be com— pletely eliminated, but it can be reduced by keeping all parts in good working condition and through proper maintenance and lubri- cation. Vibration can also be reduced in some cases by increasing the number of blades. For this reason, many racers use :5 “ .‘R‘uBa ER HUB i '57-», Rubber hub removed from a propeller. This hub was removed because the hub was slipping in the propeller. PROPELLERS I -5 two-blade props and luxury cruisers have four- and five-blade props installed. Shock Absorbers The shock absorber in the propeller plays a very important role in protecting the shafting, gears, and engine against the shock of a blow, should the propeller strike an underwater object. The shock absorber al- lows the propeller to stop rotating at the instant of impact while the power train continues turning. How much impact the propeller is able to withstand before causing the clutch hub to slip is calculated to be more than the force needed to propel the boat, but less than the amount that could damage any part of the power train. Under normal propulsion loads of moving the boat through the water, the hub will not slip. However, it will slip if the propeller strikes an object with a force that would be great enough to stop any part of the power train. % % Illustration depicting the rake of a propeller, as explained in the text. l-6 SAFETY If the power train was to absorb an impact great enough to stop rotation, even for an instant, something would have to give and be damaged. If a propeller is subjected to repeated striking of underwater objects, it would eventually slip on its clutch hub under normal loads. If the propeller would start to slip, a new hub and shock absorber would have to be installed. Propeller Rake If a propeller blade is examined on a cut extending directly through the center of the hub, and if the blade is set vertical to the propeller hub, as shown in the accompanying illustration, the propeller is said to have a zero degree (0 ) rake. As the blade slants back, the rake increases. Standard propel- lers have a rake angle from O to 150. A higher rake angle generally improves propeller performance in a cavitating or ventilating situation. On lighter, faster boats, higher rake often will increase per- formance by holding the bow of the boat higher. Progressive Pitch Progressive pitch is a blade design inno— vation that improves performance when for- ward and rotational speed is high and/or the propeller breaks the surface of the water. Progressive pitch starts low at the lead- ing edge and progressively increases to the trailing edge, as shown in the accompanying illustration. The average pitch over the entire blade is the number assigned to that propeller. In the illustration of the progres- sive pitch, the average pitch assigned to the propeller would be 21. CONSTANT PITCH Propeller with a "cupped" leading edge. "Cupping” gives the propeller a better ”hold" in the water. Cupping If the propeller is cast with a edge curl inward on the trailing edge, the blade is said to have a cup. In most cases, cupped blades improve performance. The cup helps the blades to "HOLD" and not break loose, when operating in a cavitating or ventilating situ- ation. This action permits the engine to be trimmed out further, or to be mounted high- er On the transom. This is especially true on high-performance boats. Either of these two adjustments will usually add to higher speed. PROGRESSIVE» PITCH Comparison of a constant and progressive pitch propeller. Notice how the pitch of the progressive pitch propeller, right, changes to give the blade more thrust and therefore, the boat more speed. The cup has the effect of adding to the propeller pitch. Cupping usually will reduce full-throttle engine speed about 150 to 300 rpm below the same pitch propeller without a cup to the blade. A propeller repair shop is able to increase or decrease the cup on the blades. This change, as explained, will alter engine rpm to meet specific operating demands. Cups are rapidly becoming standard on propellers. in order for a cup to be the most effec- tive, the cup should be completely concave (hollowed) and finished with a sharp corner. If the cup has any convex rounding, the effectiveness of the cup will be reduced. Rotation Propellers are manufactured as right- hand rotation (RH), and as left-hand rota- tion (LH). The standard propeller for out- boards is RH rotation. A right-hand propeller can easily be identified by observing it as shown in the accompanying illustration. Observe how the blade slants from the lower left toward the upper right. The left-hand propeller slants in the opposite direction, from upper left to lower right, as shown. When the propeller is observed rotating from astern the boat, it will be rotating clockwise when the engine is in forward gear. The left-hand propeller will rotate counterclockwise. Propeller Modification If poor acceleration is experienced on hard-to-plane boats, OMC suggests a slight modification be performed. The modifica- tion involves drilling three 6 mm (7/32") COUNTERCLOCKHI SE 0R LEFT HAND CLOCKHI SE 0R RIGHT HAND Right- and left-hand propellers showing how the angle of the blades is reversed. Right-hand propellers are by far the most popular. PROPELLERS l-7 holes through the outer shell in a precise pattern. The holes allow exhaust gasses to bleed onto the propeller blades causing con- trolled ventilation during the acceleration period. This action will allow the motor to turn at a higher rpm under acceleration, thus providing more power to plane the boat. Layout the exact position of each hole 16 12mm (5/8" 11/16") back from the inner lip and the same amount in a CLOCKWISE direction from the base of each blade, as shown in the accompanying illustration. If an inner rib is located under the position of any one of the holes, another propeller must be used. If the holes are properly positioned, and the correct size is drilled, there will be no affect on top speed, maximum rpm, or ventilation in turns. Im— proper location or size holes will have no affect on performance, particularly in turns. 1—5 FUEL SYSTEM With Built-in Fuel Tank All parts of the fuel system should be selected and installed to provide maximum service and protection against leakage. Re- inforced flexible sections should be installed in fuel lines where there is a lot of motion, such as at the engine connection. The flaring of copper tubing should be annealed after it is formed as a protection against hardening. CAUTION: Compression fittings should NOT be used because they are so easily overtightened, which places them un- der a strain and subjects them to fatigue. ;-’,'.l.. " Layout for drilling three holes through the propeller shell for increased performance to provide more power to plane the boat, as explained in the text. I-8 SAFETY Such conditions will cause the fitting to leak after it is connected a second time. The capacity of the fuel filter must be large enough to handle the demands of the engine as specified by the engine manufac- turer. A manually-operated valve should be in- stalled if anti-siphon protection is not pro— vided. This valve should be installed in the fuel line as close to the gas tank as possible. Such a valve will maintain anti-siphon pro- tection between the tank and the engine. The supporting surfaces and hold-downs must fasten the tank firmly and they should be insulated from the tank surfaces. This insulation material should be non-abrasive and nonabsorbent material. Fuel tanks installed in the forward portion of the boat should be especially well secured and protected because shock loads in this area can be as high as 20 to 25 g's ("g" equals force of gravity). Static Electricity In very simple terms, static electricity is called frictional electricity. It is generated by two dissimilar materials moving over each other. One form is gasoline flowing through a pipe or into the air. Another form is when you brush your hair or walk across a synthetic carpet and then touch a metal object. All of these actions cause an elec- trical charge. In most cases, static electri- city is generated during very dry weather conditions, but when you are filling the fuel tank on a boat it can happen at any time. Fuel Tank Grounding One area of protection against the build- up of static electricity is to have the fuel A three—position valve permits fuel to be drawn from either tank or to be shut off completely. Such an arrangement prevents accidental siphoning of fuel from the tank. .9“Q?“ few _wgu1cx~niscounect Old style pressure-type tank showing the fuel line to the engine and quick-disconnect fitting. tank properly grounded (also known as bond- ing). A direct metal-to-metal contact from the fuel hose nozzle to the water in which the boat is floating. If the fill pipe is made of metal, and the fuel nozzle makes a good contact with the deck plate, then a good ground is made. As an economy measure, some boats use rubber or plastic filler pipes because of compound bends in the pipe. Such a fill line does not give any kind of ground and if your boat has this type of installation and you do OlL IN FUEL Adding fuel to a six—gallon OMC fuel tank. Some fuel must be in the tank before oil is added to prevent the oil from accumulating on the tank bottom. not want to replace the filler pipe with a metal one, then it is possible to connect the deck fitting to the tank with a copper wire. The wire should be 8 gauge or larger. The fuel line from the tank to the engine should provide a continuous metal-to-metal contact for proper grounding. If any part of this line is plastic or other non-metallic material, then a copper wire must be con- nected to bridge the non-metal material. The power train provides a ground through the engine and drive shaft, to the propeller in the water. Fiberglass fuel tanks pose problems of their own. One method of grounding is to run a copper wire around the tank from the fill pipe to the fuel line. However, such a wire does not ground the fuel in the tank. Manufacturers should imbed a wire in the fiberglass and it should be connected to the intake and the outlet fittings. This wire would avoid corrosion which could occur if a wire passed through the fuel. CAUTION: It is not advisable to use a fiberglass fuel tank if a grounding wire was not installed" Anything you can feel as a "shock" is enough to set off an explosion. Did you know that under certain atmospheric con- ditions you can cause a static explosion yourself, particularly if you are wearing synthetic clothing. It is almost a certainty you could cause a static spark if you are NOT wearing insulated rubber-soled shoes. As soon as the deck fitting is opened, fumes are released to the air. Therefore, to A fuel tank properly grounded to prevent static electricity. Static electricity could be extremely dan- gerous when taking on fuel. LOADING I -9 opening the fill pipe deck fitting. One way to ground yourself is to dip your hand in the water overside to discharge the electricity in your body before opening the filler cap. Another method is to touch the engine block or any metal fitting on the dock which goes down into the water. 1—6 LOADING In order to receive maximum enjoyment, with safety and performance, from your boat, take care not to exceed the load capacity given by the manufacturer. A plate attached to the hull indicates the U.S. Coast Guard capacity information in pounds for persons and gear. If the plate states the maximum person capacity to be 750 pounds and you assume each person to weigh an average of 150 lbs., then the boat could carry five persons safely. If you add anoth- er 250 lbs. for motor and gear, and the maximum weight capacity for persons and gear is 1,000 lbs. or more, then the five persons and gear would be within the limit. Try to load the boat evenly port and starboard. If you place more weight on one side than on the other, the boat will list to the heavy side and make steering difficult. You will also get better performance by placing heavy supplies aft of the center to keep the bow light for more efficient plan— mg. . u.s. COAST GUARD . MAXIMUM CAPACITIES PERSONS OR LBS LBS PERSONS,MOTOR,GEAR H.P. MOTOR THIS BOAT COMPLIES WITH US. COAST GUARD SAFETY STANDARDS IN EFFECT ON THE DATE OF CERTIFICATION RECREATIONAL ENTERPRISES RIALTO, CALIF. U.S. Coast Guard plate affixed to all new boats. When the blanks are filled in, the plate will indicate the Coast Guard’s recommendations for persons, gear, and horsepower to ensure safe operation of the boat. These recommendations should not be exceeded, as explained in the text. |- ID SAFETY Clarification Much confusion arises from the terms, certification, requirements, approval, regu- lations, etc. Perhaps the following may clarify a couple of these points. 1- The Coast Guard does not approve boats in the same manner as they "Approve" life jackets. The Coast Guard applies a formula to inform the public of what is safe for a particular craft. 2— If a boat has to meet a particular regulation, it must have a Coast Guard certification plate. The public has been led to believe this indicates approval of the Coast Guard. Not so. 3- The certification plate means a will- ingness of the manufacturer to meet the Coast Guard regulations for that particular craft. The manufacturer may recall a boat if it fails to meet the Coast Guard require- ments. 4- The Coast Guard certification plate, see accompanying illustration, may or may not be metal. The plate is a regulation for the manufacturer. It is only a warning plate and the public does not have to adhere to the restrictions set forth on it. Again, the plate sets forth information as to the Coast Guard's opinion for safety on that particular boat. Type I PFD Coast Guard Approved life jacket. This type flotation device provides the greatest amount of buoyancy. NEVER use them for cushions or other purposes. 5- Coast Guard Approved equipment is equipment which has been approved by the Commandant of the U.S. Coast Guard and has been determined to be in compliance with Coast Guard specifications and regula- tions relating to the materials, construction, and performance of such equipment. 1-7 HORSEPOWER The maximum horsepower engine for each individual boat should not be increased by any great amount without checking re- quirements from the Coast Guard in your area. The Coast Guard determines horse- power requirements based on the length, beam, and depth of the hull. TAKE CARE NOT to exceed the maximum horsepower listed on the plate or the warranty and possibly the insurance on the boat may be- come void. 1 -8 FLOTATION If your boat is less than 20 ft. overall, a Coast Guard or BIA (Boating Industry of America) now changed to NMMA (National Marine Manufacturers Association) require- ment is that the boat must have buoyant material built into the hull (usually foam) to keep it from sinking if it should become swamped. Coast Guard requirements are mandatory but the NMMA is voluntary. "Kept from sinking" is defined as the ability of the flotation material to keep the boat from sinking when filled with water A Type IV PFD cushion device intended to be thrown to a person in the water. If air can be squeezed out of the cushion it is no longer fit for service as a PFD. and with passengers clinging to the hull. One reStriction is that the total weight of the motor, passengers, and equipment aboard does not exceed the maximum load capacity listed on the plate. Life Preservers —Personal Flotation Devices (PFDs) The Coast Guard requires at least one Coast Guard approved life-saving device be carried on board all motorboats for each person on board. Devices approved are identified by a tag indicating Coast Guard approval. Such devices may be life preserv- ers, buoyant vests, ring buoys, or buoyant cushions. Cushions used for seating are serviceable if air cannot be squeezed out of it. Once air is released when the cushion is squeezed, it is no longer fit as a flotation device. New foam cushions dipped in a rubberized material are almost indestruct- ible. Life preservers have been classified by the Coast Guard into five type categories. All PFDs presently acceptable on recrea— tional boats fall into one of these five designations. All PFDs MUST be U.S. Coast Guard approved, in good and serviceable condition, and of an appropriate size for the persons who intend to wear them. Wearable PFDs MUST be readily accessible and throw- able devices MUST be immediately available for use. TypeI PFD has the greatest required buoyancy and is designed to turn most UNCONSCIOUS persons in the water from a face down position to a vertical or slightly backward position. The adult size device provides a minimum buoyancy of 22 pounds and the child size provides a minimum buoy- ancy of 11 pounds. The Type I PFD provides the greatest protection to its wearer and is most effective for all waters and conditions. Type II PFD is designed to turn its wear- er in a vertical or slightly backward position in the water. The turning action is not as pronounced as with a Type I. The device will not turn as many different type persons under the same conditions as the Type I. An adult size device provides a minimum buoy- ancy of lSVz pounds, the medium child size provides a minimum of 11 pounds, and the infant and small child sizes provide a min- imum buoyancy of 7 pounds. FLOTATION l-I | Type III PFD is designed to permit the wearer to place himself (herself) in a vertical or slightly backward position. The Type III device has the same buoyancy as the Type II PFD but it has little or no turning ability. Many of the Type III PFD are designed to be particularly useful when water skiing, sailing, hunting, fishing, or en- gaging in other water sports. Several of this type will also provide increased hypothermia protection. Type IV PFD is designed to be thrown to a person in the water and grasped and held by the user until rescued. It is NOT design- ed to be worn. The most common Type IV PFD is a ring buoy or a buoyant cushion. TypeVPFD is any PFD approved for restricted use. Coast Guard regulations state, in general terms, that on all boats less than 16 ft. overall, one Type I, II, III, or IV device shall be carried on board for each person in the boat. On boats over 26 ft., one Type I, II, or III device shall be carried on board for each person in the boat plus one Type IV device. It is an accepted fact that most boating people own life preservers, but too few actually wear them. There is little or no excuse for not wearing one because the modern comfortable designs available today do not subtract from an individual‘s boating pleasure. Make a life jacket available to TypeIV PFD ring buoy designed to be thrown. On ocean cruisers, this type device usually has a weighted pole with flag, attached to the buoy. l- I 2 SAFETY your crew and advise each member to wear it. If you are a crew member ask your skipper to issue you one, especially when boating in rough weather, cold water, or when running at high speed. Naturally, a life jacke‘t should be a must for non-swim- mers any time they are out on the water in a boat. 1-9 EMERGENCY EQUIPMENT Visual Distress Signals The Regulation Since January 1, 1981, Coast Guard Reg- ulations require all recreation boats when used on coastal waters, which includes the Great Lakes, the territorial seas and those waters directly connected to the Great Lakes and the territorial seas, up to a point where the waters are less than two miles wide, and boats owned in the United States when operating on the high seas to be equip- ped with visual distress signals. GUN FOG HORN FIRED AT RED STAR CONTINUOUS FLAMES ON INTERVAL?) SHELLS SOUNDIHG A VESSEL OF I MIN. . ~ /, 0RAN68 _ _ BACKGROUND BLACK BALL 0. SQUARE ’ ll 1‘ Human nan suns “MAYDAY‘ BY RADIO CODE 371,565 NOVEMBER SQUARE FLAG CHARLIE AND BALL \/ POSITION RADlO— lNDK‘ATING TELEGRAVH TELEPHONE RADIO ALARM ALARM BEACON Internationally accepted distress signals. The only exceptions are during daytime (sunrise to sunset) for: Recreational boats less than 16 ft. (5 meters) in length. Boats participating in organized events such as races, regattas or marine parades. Open sailboats not equipped with propul- sion machinery and less than 26 ft. (8 me- ters) in length. Manually propelled boats. The above listed boats need to carry night signals when used on these waters at night. Pyrotechnic visual distress signaling de— vices MUST be Coast Guard Approved, in serviceable condition and stowed to be read- ily accessible. If they are marked with a date showing the serviceable life, this date must not have passed. Launchers, produced before Jan. 1, 1981, intended for use with approved signals are not required to be Coast Guard Approved. USCG Approved pyrotechnic visual dis- tress signals and associated devices include: Pyrotechnic red flares, hand held or aer- ial. Pyrotechnic orange smoke, hand held or floating. Launchers for aerial red meteors or par- achute flares. Moisture-protected flares should be carried on board for use as a distress signal. Non-pyrotechnic visual distress signaling devices must carry the manufacturer's certification that they meet Coast Guard requirements. They must be in serviceable condition and stowed so as to be readily accessible. This group includes: Orange distress flag at least 3 x 3 feet with a black square and ball on an orange background. Electric distress light -- not a flashlight but an approved electric distress light which MUST automatically flash the international SOS distress signal (. . . - - - . . .) four to six times each minute. Types and Quantities The following variety and combination of devices may be carried in order to meet the requirements. 1- Three hand-held red flares (day and night). 2- One electric distress light (night on— ly). 3- One hand-held red flare and two par- achute flares (day and night). 4- One hand-held orange smoke signal, two floating orange smoke signals (day) and one electric distress light (day and night). If young children are frequently aboard your boat, careful selection and proper sto- wage of visual distress signals becomes es- pecially important. If you elect to carry pyrotechnic devices, you should select those in tough packaging and not easy to ignite should the devices fall into the hands of children. Coast Guard Approved pyrotechnic de- vices carry an expiration date. This date can NOT exceed 42 months from the date of An adequately stocked first-aid kit should be on board for the safety of crew and guests. EMERGENCY EQUIPMENT |- | 3 manufacture and at such time the device can no longer be counted toward the min- imum requirements. SPECIAL WORDS In some states the launchers for meteors and parachute flares may be considered a firearm. Therefore, check with your state authorities before acquiring such a launcher. First Aid Kits The first-aid kit is similar to an insur- ance policy or life jacket. You hope you don't have to use it but if needed, you want it there. It is only natural to overlook this essential item because, let's face it, who likes to think of unpleasantness when plan— ning to have only a good time. However, the prudent skipper is prepared ahead of time, and is thus able to handle the emer- gency without a lot of fuss. Good commercial first-aid kits are avail- able such as the Johnson and Johnson "Ma- rine First-Aid Kit". With a very modest expenditure, a well-stocked and adequate kit can be prepared at home. Any kit should include instruments, sup— plies, and a set of instructions for their use. Instruments should be protected in a water- tight case and should include: scissors, tweezers, tourniquet, thermometer, safety A sounding device should be mounted close to the helmsperson for use in sounding an emergency alarm. I - Ill SAFETY pins, eye-washing cup, and a hot water bot- tle. The supplies in the kit should include: assorted bandages in addition to the various sizes of "band-aids", adhesive tape, absorb— ent cotton, applicators, petroleum jelly, an- tiseptic (liquid and ointment), local oint- ment, aspirin, eye ointment, antihistamine, ammonia inhalent, sea-sickness pills, ant— acid pills, and a laxative. You may want to consult your family physician about includ- ing antibiotics. Be sure your kit contains a first-aid manual because even though you have taken the Red Cross course, you may be the patient and have to rely on an untrained crew for care. Fire Extinguishers All fire extinguishers must bear Under- writers Laboratory (UL) "Marine Type" ap- proved labels. With the UL certification, the extinguisher does not have to have a Coast Guard approval number. The Coast Guard classifies fire extinguishers according to their size and type. Type 8-1 or 8-11 Designed for extinguish- ing flammable liquids. Required on all mo- torboats. The Coast Guard considers a boat having one or more of the following conditions as a "boat of closed construction" subject to fire extinguisher regulations. 1— Inboard engine or engines. 2— Closed compartments under thwarts and seats wherein portable fuel tanks may be stored. 3- Double bottoms not sealed to the hull or which are not completely filled with flotation materials. 14- Closed living spaces. 5- Closed stowage compartments in which combustible or flammable material is stored. 6- Permanently installed fuel tanks. Detailed classification of fire extingui- shers is by agent and size: 8-1 contains 1-1/4 gallons foam, 4 pounds carbon dioxide, 2 pounds dry chemical, and 2-1/2 pounds freon. B-lI contains 2-1/2 gallons foam, 15 pounds carbon dioxide, and 10 pounds dry chemical. The class of motorboat dictates how many fire extinguishers are required on board. One B-II unit can be substituted for two B-I extinguishers. When the engine compartment of a motorboat is equipped ' with a fixed (built-in) extinguishing system, one less portable B-I unit is required. Dry chemical fire extinguishers without e A suitable fire extinguisher should be mounted close to the helmsman for emergency use. r At least one gallon of emergency fuel should be kept on board in an approved container. gauges or indicating devices must be weigh- ed and tagged every 6 months. If the gross weight of a carbon dioxide (CO )l fire extin- guisher is reduced by more that? 10% of the net weight, the extinguisher is not accept- able and‘must be recharged. READ labels on fire extinguishers. If the extinguisher is U.L. listed, it is approved for marine use. DOUBLE the number of fire extinguish- ers recommended by the Coast Guard, be- cause their requirements are a bare MINI— MUM for safe operation. Your boat, family, and crew, must certainly be worth much more than "bare minimum". l-lO COMPASS Selection The safety of the boat and her crew may depend on her compass. In many areas weather conditions can change so rapidly that within minutes a skipper may find him- self "socked-in" by a fog bank, a rain squall, or just poor visibility. Under these condi- tions, he may have no other means of keep- ing to his desired course except with the compass. When crossing an open body of water, his compass may be the only means of making an accurate landfall. During thick weather when you can nei- ther see nor hear the expected aids to navigation, attempting to run out the time on a given course can disrupt the pleasure of the cruise. The skipper gains little comfort in a chain of soundings that does not match those given on the chart for the expected area. Any stranding, even for a short time, can be an unnerving experience. A pilot will not knowingly accept a cheap parachute. A good boater should not accept a bargain in lifejackets, fire ex- tinguishers, or compass. Take the time and spend the few extra dollars to purchase a compass to fit your expected needs. Re- gardless of what the salesman may tell you, postpone buying until you have had the chance to check more than one make and model. Lift each compass, tilt and turn it, sim- ulating expected motions of the boat. The compass card should have a smooth and stable reaction. The card of a good quality compass will come to rest without oscillations about the lubber‘s line. Reasonable movement in your hand, comparable to the rolling and pitching COMPASS I - l 5 The compass is a delicate instrument and deserves respect. It should be mounted securely and in position where it can be easily observed by the helmsman. of the boat, should not materially affect the reading. Installation Proper installation of the compass does not happen by accident. Make a critical check of the proposed location to be sure compass placement will permit the helms- rnan to use it with comfort and accuracy. First, the compass should be placed directly in front of the helmsrnan and in such a position that it can be viewed without body stress as he sits or stands in a posture of relaxed alertness. The compass should be in the helmsman's zone of comfort. It the compass is too far away, he may have to bend forward to watch it; too close and he must rear backward for relief. Do not hesitate to spend a few extra dollars for a good reliable compass. If in doubt, seek advice from fellow boaters. l- I 6 SAFETY Second, give some thought to comfort in heavy weather and poor visibilty conditions during the day and night. In some cases, the compass position may be partially deter- mined by the location of the wheel, shift lever, and‘throttle handle. Third, inspect the compass site to be sure the instrument will be at least two feet from any engine indicators, bilge vapor de- tectors, magnetic instruments, or any steel "Innocent" objects close to the compass, such as diet coke in an aluminum can, may cause serious problems and lead to disaster, as these three photos and the accompanying text illustrate. or iron objects. If the compass cannot be placed at least two feet (six feet would be better) from one of these influences, then either the compass or the other object must be moved, if first order accuracy is to be expected. Once the compass location appears to be satisfactory, give the compass a test before installation. Hidden influences may be con- cealed under the cabin top, forward of the cabin aft bulkhead, within the cockpit ceil- ing, or in a wood-covered stanchion. Move the compass around in the area of the proposed location. Keep an eye on the card. A magnetic influence is the only thing that will make the card turn. You can quickly find any such influence with the compass. If the influence can not be moved away or replaced by one of non-magnetic material, test to determine whether it is merely magnetic, a small piece of iron or steel, or some magnetized steel. Bring the north pole of the compass near the object, then shift and bring the south pole near it. Both the north and south poles will be attracted if the compass is demagnetized. If the object attracts one pole and repels the other, then the compass is magnetized. If your compass needs to be demagnetized, take it to a shop equipped to do the job PROPERLY. After you have moved the compass a- round in the proposed mounting area, hold it down or tape it in position. Test everything you feel might affect the compass and cause a deviation from a true reading. Rotate the wheel from hard over to hard over. Switch on and off all the lights, radios, radio direc- tion finder, radio telephone, depth finder and the shipboard intercom, if one is instal- led. Sound the electric whistle, turn on the windshield wipers, start the engine (with water circulating through the engine), work the throttle, and move the gear shift lever. If the boat has an auxiliary generator, start it. If the card moves during any one of these tests, the compass should be relocat- ed. Naturally, if something like the wind- shield wipers cause a slight deviation, it may be necessary for you to make a differ- ent deviation table to use only when certain pieces of equipment is operating. Bear in mind, following a course that is only off a degree or two for several hours can make considerable difference at the end, putting you on a reef, rock, or shoal. Check to be sure the intended compass site is solid. Vibration will increase pivot wear. Now, you are ready to mount the com- pass. To prevent an error on all courses, the line through the lubber line and the compass card pivot must be exactly parallel to the keel of the boat. You can establish the fore-and-aft line of the boat with a stout cord or string. Use care to transfer this line to the compass site. If necessary, shim the base of the compass until the stile-type lubber line (the one affixed to the case and not gimbaled) is vertical when the boat is on an even keel. Drill the holes and mount the compass. Magnetic Items After Installation Many times an owner will install an expensive stereo system in the cabin of his boat. It is not uncommon for the speakers to be mounted on the aft bulkhead up against the overhead (ceiling). In almost every case, this position places one of the speakers in very close proximity to the compass, mounted above the ceiling. As we all know, a magnet is used in the operation of the speaker. Therefore, it is very likely that the speaker, mounted al- most under the compass in the cabin will have a very pronounced affect on the com- pass accuracy. Consider the following test and the ac- companying photographs as prove of the statements made. First, the compass was read as 190 de- grees while the boat was secure in her slip. Next a full can of diet coke in an alum- inum can was placed on one side and the compass read as 201.1 degrees, a good 14 degrees off. Next, the full can was moved to the opposite side of the compass and again a reading was observed. This time as 189 degrees, 11 degrees off from the original reading. Finally the contents of the can were consumed, the can placed on both sides of the compass with NO affect on the compass reading. Two very important conclusions can be drawn from these tests. 1- Something must have been in the con- tents of the can to affect the compass so drastically. ANCHORS I- I7 2- Keep even "innocent" things clear of the compass to avoid any possible error in the boat's heading. REMEMBER, a boat moving through the water at 10 knots on a compass error of just 5 degrees will be almost 1.5 miles off course in only ONE hour. At night, or in thick weather, this could very possibly put the boat on a reef, rock, or shoal, with disastrous results. 1-11 STEERING JSCC- or BIA certification of a steering system means that all materials, equipment, and installation of the steering parts meet or exceed specific standards for strength, type, and maneuverability. Avoid sharp bends when routing the cable. Check to be sure the pulleys turn freely and all fittings are secure. 1—12 ANCHORS One of the most important pieces of equipment in the boat next to the power plant is the ground tackle carried. The engine makes the boat go and the anchor and its line are what hold it in place when the boat is not secured to a dock or on the beach. The weight of the anchor MUST be adequate to secure the boat without dragging. l- l 8 SAFETY The anchor must be of suitable size, type, and weight to give the skipper peace of mind when his boat is at anchor. Under certain conditions, a second, smaller, lighter anchor may help to keep the boat in a favorable ‘position during a non-emergency daytime situation. ,In order for the anchor to hold properly, a piece of chain must be attached to the anchor and then the nylon anchor line at- tached to the chain. The amount of chain should equal or exceed the length of the boat. Such a piece of chain will ensure that the anchor stock will lay in an approximate horizontal position and permit the flutes to dig into the bottom and hold. 1—13 MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT In addition to the equipment you are legally required to carry in the boat and those previously mentioned, some extra items will add to your boating pleasure and safety. Practical suggestions would include: a bailing device (bucket, pump, etc.), boat The bilge pump line must be cleaned frequently to ensure the entire bilge pump system will function properly in an emergency. hook, fenders, spare propeller, spare engine parts, tools, an auxiliary means of propul- sion (paddle or oars), spare can of gasoline, flashlight, and extra warm clothing. The area of your boating activity, weather con- ditions, length of stay aboard your boat, and the Specific purpose will all contribute to the kind and amount of stores you put aboard. When it comes to personal gear, heed the advice of veteran boaters who say, "Decide on how little you think you can get by with, then cut it in half". Bilge Pumps Automatic bilge pumps should be equip- ped with an overriding manual switch. They should also have an indicator in the opera- tor's position to advise the helmsman when the pump is operating. Select a pump that will stabilize its temperature within the manufacturer's specified limits when it is operated continuously. The pump motor should be a sealed or arcless type, suitable for a marine atmosphere. Place the bilge pump inlets so excess bilge water can be removed at all normal boat trims. The intakes should be properly screened to pre- vent the pump from sucking up debris from the bilge. Intake tubing should be of a high quality and stiff enough to resist kinking and not collapse under maximum pump suction condition if the intake becomes blocked. To test operation of the bilge pump, operate the pump switch. If the motor does not run, disconnect the leads to the motor. Connect a voltmeter to the leads and see if voltage is indicated. If voltage is not indi- cated, then the problem must be in a blown fuse, defective switch, or some other area of the electrical system. If the meter indicates voltage is present at the leads, then remove, disassemble, and inspect the bilge pump. Clean it, reassem-V ble, connect the leads, and operate the switch again. If the motor still fails to run, the pump must be replaced. To test the bilge pump switch, first disconnect the leads from the pump and connect them to a test light or ohmmeter. Next, hold the switch firmly against the mounting location in order to make a good ground. Now, tilt the opposite end of the switch upward until it is activated as indica- ted by the test light coming on or the ohmmeter showing continuity. Finally, low- er the switch slowly toward the mounting position until it is deactivated. Measure the distanCe between the point the switch was activated and the point it was deactilated. For proper service, the switch should deact- ivate between l/Z-inch and l/‘i-inch from the planned mounting position. CAUTION: The switch must never be mounted lower than the bilge pump pickup. l-lll BOATING ACCIDENT REPORTS New federal and state regulations re- quire an accident report to be. filed with the nearest State boating authority within #8 hours if a person is lost, disappears, or is injured to the degree of needing medical treatment beyond first aid. Accidents involving only property or equipzn ent damage MUST be reported within 10 days if the damage is in excess of 3200. Some States require reporting of accidents with property damage less than ,200 or total boat loss. A $500 PENALTY may be asessed for failure to submit the report. WORD OF ADVICE Take time to make a copy of the report to keep for your records or for the insurance company. Once the report is filed, the Coast Guard will not give out a copy, even to the person who filed the report. The report must give details of the acci- dent and include: I- The date, time, and exact location of the occurrence. 2— The name of each person who died, was lost, or injured. 3- The number and name of the vessel. 4- The names and addresses of the own- er and operator. If the operator cannot file the report for any reason, each person on board MUST notify the authorities, or determine that the report has been filed. 1-15 NAVIGATION Buoys In the United States, a buoyage system is used as an assist to all boaters of all size craft to navigate our coastal waters and our navigable rivers in safety. When properly read and understood, these buoys and mark- ers will permit the heater to cruise with comparative confidence that he will be able NAVIGATION l-l9 to avoid reefs, rocks, shoals, and other haz- ards. in the spring of 1983, the Coast Guard began making i'nodificati-ons to U.S. aids to navigation in support of an agreement spon- sored by the International Associaiton of Lighthouse Authorities (IALA) and signed by representatives from most of the maritime nations of the world. The primary purpose of the modifications is to improve safety by making buoyage systems around the world more alike and less confusing. The modifications shown in the accom- panying illustrations should be completed by the end of £989. Lights The following information regarding lights required on boats between sunset and sunrise or during restricted visibility is tak~ en directly from a U.S. Coast Guard publi- cation dated V931}. The terms "PORT" and "STARBOARD" are used to refer to the left and right side of the boat, when looking forward. One. easy way to remember this basic fundamen- tal is to consider the words "port" and "left" both have four letters and go together. ‘ .ii‘tiifih .Jifi'fl {2% l‘iél‘ n “have .. mm“ : Hookup for testing an automatic bilge pump switch. I-20 SAFETY Waterway Rules On the water, certain basic safe-operat- ing practices must be followed. You should learn and practice them, for to know, is to be able to handle your boat with confidence and safety. Knowledge of what to do, and not do, will add a great deal to the enjoy- ment you will receive from your boating investment. Rules of the Road The best advice possible and a Coast Guard reqiiiirement for boats over 39' 4" (l2 meters) since l98l, is to obtain an official copy of the "Rules of the Road", which includes inland Waterways, Western Rivers, and the Great Lakes for study and ready reference. The following two paragraphs give a VERY brief condensed and abbreviated -- Port Side Starboard Side Odd Numbers Even Numbers Light _\ | /_ Rhythms _\l {— ["37 mic—.— OCCULTINGm l 00 QUICK FLASHlNGm ! :0 INT curl:- F G “9" R "a" . Fl G 459:: FI R 4sec Lighted Buoy (Green Light Only) Lighted Buoy (Red Light Only) or or "i 7" me" Can Buoy Nun Buoy (Unlighted) (Unlighted) r 36 l l —_ L_| . A Daymark Daymark MODIFICATIONS: Port hand aids will be green with green lights. All starboard hand aids will have red lights. almost a synopsis of the rules and should not be considered in any way as covering the entire subiem. Powered boats must yield the right-of- way to all boats without motors, except when being overtaken. When meeting an- other boat head-on, keep to starboard, un— less you are too far to port to make this practical. When overtaking another boat, the right-of-way belongs to the boat being overtaken. if your boat is being passed, you must maintain course and speed. When two boats approach at an angle and there is danger of collision, the boat to port must give way to the boat to starboard. Always keep to starboard in a narrow chan— nel or canal. Boats underway must stay Clear of vessels fishing with nets, lines, or trawls. (Fishing boats are not allowed to fish in channels or to obstruct navigation.) Preferred Channel Preferred Channel to Starboard to Port Light Rhythm \l/ II-—I-- \I/ E19; Composite Group Flashing (2+1) —' __.‘ GR ”M" RG “D" 1 CGpFl G CGpFl R Lighted Buoy (Green Light Only) Lighted Buoy (Red Light Only) or O!“ o5 2 9 % RG F" N ”L" Can Buoy Nun Buoy (Unlighted) (Unlighted) ,A RG ' l_\ "B" Daymark g 9:. Daymark MODIFICATIONS: 'Green will replace black. Light rhythm will be changed to Composite Gp Fl (2+1). 2 TUNING 2—1 INTRODUCTION The efficiency, reliability, fuel economy and enjoyment available from engine perfor- mance are all directly dependent on having it tuned properly. The importance of per- forming service work in the sequence detail- ed in this chapter cannot be over emphasiz- ed. Before making any adjustments, check the Specifications in the Appendix. NEVER rely on memory when making critical ad— justments. Before beginning to tune any engine, check to be sure the engine has satisfactory s? '1! «0mm Damaged piston, probably caused by inaccurate fuel mixture, or improper point setting. compression. An engine with worn or bro- ken piston rings, burned pistons, or badly scored cylinder walls, cannot be made to perform properly no matter how much time and expense is spent on the tune—up. Poor compression must be corrected or the tune— up will not give the desired results. The opposite of poor compression would be to consider good compression as evidence of a satisfactory cylinder. However, this is not necessarily the case, when working on an outboard engine. As the professional mechanic has discovered, many times the compression check will indicate a satisfac- tory cylinder, but after the head is pulled ”ww- w..- .99.}. -. -. t 'w . . A clean boat and engine appearance reflects this owner’s pride in his unit. Keeping the interior well lubricated and properly adjusted will give him the enjoyment deserved for his investment. 2-2 TUNING and an inspection made, the cylinder will require service. A practical maintenance program that is followed throughout the year, is one of the best methods of ensuring the engine will give satisfactory performance at any time. The extent of the engine tune-up is usu- ally dependent on the time lapse since the last service. A complete tune—up of the entire engine would entail almost all of the work outlined in this manual. A logical sequence of steps will be presented in gen- eral terms. If additional information or detailed service work is required, the chap- ter containing the instructions will be refer- enced. Each year higher compression ratios are built into modern outboard engines and the electrical systems become more complex, especially with electronic (capacitor dis- charge) units. Therefore, the need for reli- able, authoratative, and detailed instruc- tions becomes more critical. The informa- tion in this chapter and the referenced chapters fulfill that requirement. 2-2 TUNE-UP SEQUENCE If twenty different mechanics were ask- ed the question, "What constitutes a major and minor tune-up?", it is entirely possible twenty different answers would be given. As the terms are used in this manual and _ ”‘3 §‘ “I. The time, effort, and expense of a tune—up will not restore an engine to satisfactory performance, if the pistons are damaged. other Seloc outboard books, the following work is normally performed for a minor and major tune-up. Minor Tune-up Lubricate engine. Drain and replace gear oil. Adjust points. Adjust carburetor. Clean exterior surface of engine. Tank test engine for fine adjustments. Major Tune-up Remove head. Clean carbon from pistons and cylinders. Clean and overhaul carburetor. Clean and overhaul fuel pump. Rebuild and adjust ignition system. Lubricate engine. Drain and replace gear oil. Clean exterior surface of engine. Tank test engine for fine adjustments. During a major tune—up, a definite se- quence of service work should be followed to return the engine to the maximum per- formance desired. This type of work should not be confused with attempting to locate problem areas of "why" the engine is not performing satisfactorily. This work is clas- sified as "troubleshooting". In many cases, these two areas will overlap, because many times a minor or major tune-up will correct the malfunction and return the system to normal operation. A boat and lower unit covered with marine growth. Such a condition is a serious hinderance to satisfactory performance. The following list is a suggested se- quence of tasks to perform during the tune— up service work. The tasks are merely listed here. Generally procedures are given in subsequent sections of this chapter. For more detailed instructions, see the refer- enced chapter. 1- Perform a compression check of each cylinder, see next section. 2- Inspect the spark plugs to determine their condition. Test for adequate spark at the plug, see Section 2-4. 3- Start the engine in a body of water and check the water flow through the engine. See Chapter 8. 4- Check the gear oil in the lower unit. See Chapter 8. 5- Check the carburetor adjustments and the need for an overhaul. See Chap- ter 4. 6- Check the fuel pump for adequate performance and delivery. See Chapter 4. 7- Make a general inspection of the igni- tion system. See Chapter 5. 8- Test the starter motor and the sole- noid. See Chapter 7. 9- Check the internal wiring. 10— Check the timing and synchroniza- tion. See Chapter 5. Removing the spark plugs for inspection. Worn plugs are one of the major contributing factors to poor engine performance. COMPRESSION CHECK 2-3 2-3 COMPRESSION CHECK A compression check is extremely im- portant, because an engine with low or un— even compression between cylinders CAN- NOT be tuned to operate satisfactorily. Therefore, it is essential that any compres- sion problem be corrected before proceeding with the tune-up procedure. See Chapter 3. If the powerhead shows any indication of overheating, such as discolored or scorched paint, especially in the area of the top (No. 1) cylinder, inspect the cylinders visually thru the transfer ports for possible scoring. A more thorough inspection can be made if the head is removed. It is possible for a cylinder with satisfactory compression to be scored slightly. Also, check the water pump. The overheating condition may be caused by a faulty water pump. An overheating condition may also be caused by running the engine out of the water. For unknown reasons, many opera- tors have formed a bad habit of running a small engine without the lower unit being submerged. Such a practice will result in an overheated condition in a matter of seconds. It is interesting to note, the same operator would never operate or allow anyone else to run a large horsepower engine without water circulating through the lower unit for cool— ing. Bear—in-mind, the laws governing oper- ation and damage to a large unit ALL apply equally as well to the small engine. V.) 3‘3" "0 " . .4 5g?” .9 V’cé'MPREss ION; ' Gauge 1 A compression check should. be taken in each cylin- der before spending time and money on tune-up work. Without adequate compression, efforts in other areas to regain engine performance will be wasted. 2-4 TUNING _ ”BROKEN ‘ fi. .3}. ELECTRODE ‘ ”39 ELECTRODE Damaged spark plugs. Notice the broken electrode on the left plug. The broken part must be found and removed before returning the engine to service. Checking Compression Remove the spark plug wires. ALWAYS grasp the molded cap and pull it loose with a twisting motion to prevent damage to the connection. Remove the spark plugs and keep them in ORDER by cylinder for evalua- tion later. Ground the spark plug leads to the engine to render the ignition system inoperative while performing the compres— sion check. Insert a compression gauge into the No. 1, top, spark plug opening. Crank the engine with the starter, or pull on the starter cord, thru at least 4 complete strokes with the throttle at the wide—open position, or until the highest possible read- ing is observed on the gauge. Record the reading. Repeat the test and record the compression for each cylinder. A variation between cylinders is far more important than the actual readings. A variation of more than 5 psi between cylinders indicates the lower compression cylinder may be de- fective. The problem may be worn, broken, or sticking piston rings, scored pistons or worn cylinders. These problems may only be FOULED ELECTRODE A fouled spark plug. The condition of this plug indicates problems in the air/fuel mixture or the amount of oil added to the mixture. determined after the head has been remov- ed. Removing the head on an outboard engine is not that big a deal and may save many hours of frustration and the cost of purchasing unnecessary parts to correct a faulty condition. 2—4 SPARK PLUG INSPECTION Inspect each spark plug for badly worn electrodes, glazed, broken, blistered, or lead fouled insulators. Replace all of the plugs, if one shows signs of excessive wear. lviake an evaluation of the cylinder per- formance by comparing the spark condition with those shown in Chapter 5. Check each spark plug to be sure they are all of the same manufacturer and have the same heat range rating. Inspect the threads in the spark plug opening of the head and clean the threads before installing the plug. If the threads are damaged, the head should be removed and and a Heli—coil insert installed. If an at- tempt is made to drill out the opening with the head in place, some of the filings may fall into the cylinder and cause damage to the cylinder wall during operation. Because the head is made of aluminum, the filings cannot be removed with a magnet. When purchasing new spark plugs, AL- WAYS ask the marine dealer if there has been a spark plug change for the engine being serviced. Crank the engine through several revo- lutions to blow out any material which might have become dislodged during clean- ing. install the Spark plugs and tighten them to the proper torque value. ALWAYS use a new gasket and wipe the seats in the block clean. The gasket must be fully compressed Today, numerous type spark plugs are available for service. ALWAYS check with your local marine dealer to be sure you are purchasing the proper plugs for the engine being serviced. ERRODED POINTS ”pry. . . . ' o‘“ ' " 2‘ c. WWWWW§§§ Worn ignition points are a common problem area contributing to poor engine performance. on clean seats to complete the heat transfer process and to provide a gas tight seal in the cylinder. If the torque value is too high, the heat will dissipate too rapidly. Conversely, if the torque value is too low, heat will not dissipate fast enough. 2-5 IGNITION SYSTEM Four different ignition systems are used on outboard engines covered in this manual: A flywheel magneto; a low—tension magneto; a capacitor discharge (CD) system with timer base; and a CD with a sensor coil. If engine performance is less than ex- pected, and the ignition is diagnosed as the problem area, refer to Chatper 5 for detail- ed service procedures. To properly synchro- nize the ignition system with the fuel sys- tem, see appropriate Section in Chapter 5. The fuel and ignition systems on any engine MUST be properly synchronized before maximum performance can be obtained from the unit. SYNCHRONIZING 2-5 Breaker Points Engines equipped with either the fly- wheel magneto or low-tension magneto sys- tems utilize breaker points. Breaker points are NOT used in the magneto capacitor discharge (CD) ignition system. Rough or discolored contact surfaces are sufficient reason for replacement. The cam follower will usually have worn away by the time the points have become unsatisfactory for efficient service. Check the resistance across the con— tacts. If the test indicates ZERO resis— tance, the points are serviceable. A slight resistance across the points will affect idle operation. A high resistance may cause the ignition system to malfunction and loss of spark. Therefore, if any resistance across the points is indicated, the point set should be replaced. 2-6 SYNCHRONIZING The timing on small OMC (Johnson and Evinrude) outboard engines is controlled through adjustment of the points. On the 40hp, 5th, 55hp, and 60hp engines, and some newer smaller models, the timing is adjustable through the synchronization, see Chapter 5. If the points are adjusted too closely, the spark plugs will fire early; if adjusted with excessive gap, the plugs will fire too late, for efficient operation. Therefore, correct point adjustment and synchronization are essential for proper en- gine operation. An engine may be in appar- ent excellent mechanical condition, but per- form poorly, unless the points and synchro— nization have been adjusted precisely, ac- cording to the Specifications in the Appen- dix. To synchronize the engine, see Chapter 5. The battery MUSI‘ be located near the engine in a well—ventilated area. It must be secured in such a manner that absolutely no movement is possible in any direction under the most violent action of the boat. 2-6 TUNING 2—7 BATTERY SERVICE Many owner/operators are not fully aware of the role a battery performs with a magneto ignition system outboard engine. To clarify:‘ With a magneto ignition system, a battery is only used to crank the engine for starting purposes. Once the engine is running properly, the battery could very well be removed without affecting engine operation. Therefore, if the battery is com- pletely dead, the engine may be hand start- ed with a pull cord and operate efficiently. If a battery is used for starting, inspect and service the battery, cables and connec- tions. Check for signs of corrosion. Inspect the battery case for cracks or bulges, dirt, acid, and electrolyte leakage. Check the electrolyte level in each cell. Fill each cell to the proper level with distilled water or water passed thru a de- mineralizer. Clean the top of the battery. The top of a 12-‘volt battery should be kept especially clean of acid film and dirt, because of the high voltage between the battery terminals. For best results, first wash the battery with a diluted ammonia or baking soda solution to ; , <>wzwf*‘»:'; . *€..~u' ' ’x ‘ A check of the electrolyte in the battery should be a regular task on the maintenance schedule on any boat. An inexpensive brush should be purchased and used to clean the battery terminals. Clean terminals will ensure a proper connection. neutralize any acid present. Flush the so— lution off the battery with clean water. Keep the vent plugs tight to prevent the neutralizing solution or water from entering the cells. Check to be sure the battery is fastened securely in position. The hold-down device should be tight enough to prevent any move- ment of the battery in the holder, but not so tight as to place a strain on the battery case. 3., ;.n‘ -‘.g l u.)l‘‘l .“*2“ng. r Y .- <. .any. r ‘thg. .”fa.“ A é ' fi a w “ : ‘ L... .< ‘a “ Common set of jumper cables for using a second battery to crank and start the engine. EXTREME care should be used when using a second battery, as explain- ed in the text. If the battery posts or cable terminals are corroded, the cables should be cleaned separately with a baking soda solution and a wire brush. Apply a thin coating of Multi- purpose Lubricant to the posts and cable clamps before making the connections. The lubricantiwill help to prevent corrosion. If the battery has remained under-charg- ed, check for high resistance in the charging circuit. If the battery appears to be using too much water, the battery may be defec- tive, or it may be too small for the job. Jumper Cables If booster batteries are used for starting an engine the jumper cables must be con- nected correctly and in the proper sequence to prevent damage to either battery, or the alternator diodes. ALWAYS connect a cable from the posi- tive terminals of the dead battery to the positive terminal of the good battery FIRST. NEXT, connect one end of the other cable to the negative terminals of the good battery and the other end on the ENGINE for a good ground. By making the ground connection on the engine, if there is an arc when. you make the connection it will not be near the battery. An arc near the battery could cause an explosion, destroying the battery and causing serious personal injury. DISCONNECT the battery ground cable before replacing an alternator or before connecting any type of meter to the alter- nator. If it is necessary to use a fast—charger on a dead battery, ALWAYS disconnect one of A 40 hp engine with a starter installed on the starboard side and a generator on the port side. The generator, in kit form, is available from the local OMC dealer. BATTERY SERVICE 2-7 the boat cables from the battery first, to prevent burning out the diodes in the alter- nator. NEVER use a fast charger as a booster to start the engine because the diodes in the alternator will be DAMAGED. Generator Charging Normally a generating system is not standard equipment on the smaller horse- power engines, up to the 40 hp model. However, a generator kit may be purchased and installed on the 40 hp engines for bat- tery charging while the engine is operating. A generator system is standard equipment of the 40 hp electric shift model. When the battery is partially discharged, the ammeter should change from discharge to charge between 1500 to 1800 rpm for all models. If the battery is fully-charged, the rpm will be a little higher. With the engine running, in gear, in the water, increase the throttle until the rpm is approximately 5200 rpm. The ammeter reading should meet the Alternator Specifi- cations in the Appendix. With a fully- charged battery the ammeter reading will be a bit lower because of the self—regulating characteristics of the generating systems. Before disconnecting the ammeter, remove the red harness lead connected to the posi- tive battery terminal. Alternator Charging When the battery is partially discharged, the ammeter should change from discharge to charge between 800 to lOOOrpm for all models. If the battery is fully—charged, the rpm will be a little higher. weer-ta WW“ GENERATING __cglts ' L m View of the armature plate with the flywheel re- moved to show the generating coils mounted on the plate. 2-8 TUNING With the engine running, increase the throttle to approximately 5200 rpm. The ammeter reading should be approximately equal to the amperage rating of the alterna- tor installed. With a fully—charged battery, the ammeter reading will be a bit lower because of the self-regulating characteris- tics of the generating systems. Before disconnecting the ammeter, reconnect the red harness lead to the positive battery terminal and install the wing nut. 2-8 CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS Fuel and Fuel Tanks Take time to check the fuel tank and all of the fuel lines, fittings, couplings, valves, flexible tank fill and vent. Turn on the fuel supply valve at the tank, if the engine is equipped with a self-contained fuel tank. If the gas was not drained at the end of the previous season, make a careful inspection for gum formation. When gasoline is al- lowed to stand for long periods of time, particularly in the presence of copper, gum- my deposits form. This gum can clog the filters, lines, and passageway in the carbu- retor. If the condition of the fuel is in doubt, drain, clean, and fill the tank with fresh fueL Fuel pressure at the carburetor should be Checked whenever a lack of fuel volume at the carburetor is suspected. High-speed Adjustm ent The high-speed. needle valve is adjustabie on some models covered in this manual through 1974. After 1975, the high-speed orifice is fixed at the factory and is NOT QUICK-DleONVECj o>V> An OMC six—gallon fuel tank with the fuel line connected through a quick-disconnect fitting. Such a fitting is handy when the tank is removed from the boat for filling. adjustable. However, larger or smaller ori- fices may be installed for different eleva- tions. On all Johnson/Evinrude engines, the high-speed needle valve, or orifice, is the lower valve on the carburetor. The upper needle valve is always the idle adjustment. A beginning "rough" adjustment for the high-speed needle valve is 3/4 turn out (counterclockwise) from the lightly seated (closed) position. TAKE CARE not to seat the valve firmly to prevent damage to the valve or the carburetor. To make the high-speed adjustment: a— Mount the engine in a test tank or body of water, preferably with a test wheel. Engines up to 40 hp may be operated in the high rpm range in a test tank without sus— taining damage. NEVER, AGAIN NEVER, operate the en— gine at high speed with a flush device at- tached. The engine, operating at high speed with such a device attached, would RUN—A- WAY from lack of a load on the propeller, causing extensive damage. b— Connect a tachometer to the engine. CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the en- gine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump. c— Start the engine and allow it to warm to operating temperature. d— Shift the engine into forward gear. e— With the engine running in forward :IDLE ADJUSTMENT g? > g .Vé‘: .’ , ; '23“ , .- - Small horsepower engine mounted in a test tank with the low— and high—speed adjustments indicated. gear, advance the throttle to the wide open position, and then very SLOWLY turn the high-speed needle valve inward (CLOCK- WISE) until the engine begins to loose rpm. Now, SLOWLY rotate the needle valve out- ward (COUNTERCLOCKWISE) until the en- gine peaks out at the highest rpm. If the high-speed needle valve adjust- ment is too lean, the low-speed adjustment will be affected. Under certain conditions it may be necessary to adjust the high—speed needle valve just a bit richer in order to obtain a satisfactory idle adjustment. After the high-speed needle adjustment has been obtained, proceed with the idle ad- justment as outlined in the next paragraphs. Idle Adjustment Due to local conditions, it may be neces— sary to adjust the carburetor while the en- gine is running in a test tank or with the boat in a body of water. For maximum performance, the idle mixture and the idle rpm should be adjusted under actual operat- ing conditions. Set the idle mixture screw at the speci- fied number of turns open from a lightly seated position. In most cases this is from 1 to 1V2 turns open from close. Start the engine and allow it to warm to operating temperature. CAUTION: Water must circulate through the lower unit to the engine any time the en- gine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower tmit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump. ADJUSTMENT HIGH SPEED ORIFICE PLUG A 40hp powerhead with the idle adjustment screw cmd the high speed orifice plug identified. FUEL PUMP 2—9 NEVER, AGAIN NEVER, operate the en— gine at high speed with a flush device at- tached. The engine, operating at high speed with such a device attached, would RUN-A- WAY from lack of a load on the propeller, causing extensive damage. With the engine running in forward gear, slowly turn the idle mixture screw COUN— TERCLOCKWISE until the affected cylin- ders start to load up or fire unevenly, due to an over-rich mixture. Slowly turn the idle mixture screw CLOCKWISE until the cylin- ders fire evenly and engine rpm increases. Continue to slowly turn the screw CLOCK- WISE until too lean a mixture is obtained and the rpms fall off and the engine begins to misfire. Now, set the idle mixture screw one-quarter (1/14) turn out (counterclock- wise) from the lean-out position. This ad- justment will result in an approximate true setting. A too-lean setting is a major cause of hard starting a cold engine. It is better to have the adjustment on the rich side rather than on the lean side. Stating it another way, do not make the adjustment any leaner than necessary to obtain a smooth idle. If the engine hesitates during accelera- tion after adjusting the idle mixture, the mixture is too lean. Enrich the mixture slightly, by turning the adjustment screw inward until the engine accelerates correct- ly. With the engine running in forward gear, rotate the nylon idle adjustment screw, lo- cated on the portside of the engine, until the engine idles at the recommended rpm, as given in the Specifications in the Appen- dix. This idle adjustment screw is always exposed on the outside of the shroud. Repairs and Adjustments For detailed procedures to disassemble, clean, assemble, and adjust the carburetor, see the appropriate section in Chapter 4 for the carburetor type on the engine being serviced. 2-9 FUEL PUMPS Many times, a defective fuel pump dia- phragm is mistakenly diagnosed as a prob- lem in the ignition system. The most com- mon problem is a tiny pin—hole in the dia- phragm. Such a small hole will permit gas to enter the crankcase and wet foul the spark plug at idle-speed. During high-Speed 2- IO TUNING SCREEN Two of the many types of fuel pumps installed on OMC outboard engines. These fuel pumps cannot be rebuilt, as explained in the text. operation, gas quantity is limited, the plug is not foul and will therefore fire in a satisfactory manner. If the fuel pump fails to perform proper— ly, an insufficient fuel supply will be de— livered to the carburetor. This lack of fuel will cause the engine to run lean, lose rpm or cause piston scoring. When a fuel pressure gauge is added to the system, it should be installed at the end of the fuel line leading to the upper carbu- retor. To ensure maximum performance, the fuel pressure must be 2 psi or more at full throttle. 53m): minnows; ' I' ‘- _ mum omniscima: ‘ , w 4 v: W e ’ v e - r t « . b i d e ; ><.' “m ,. '. imvs stem - .4; 3'4 _ _ imam to: gas. .13 His a! ’. ifia‘gagc Pirates-re. Commercial additives, such as Sta—bil, may be used to keep the gasoline in the fuel tank fresh. Under favorable conditions, such additives will prevent the fuel from "soaring" for up to twelve months. Tune-up Task Most fuel pumps are equipped with a fuel filter. The filter may be cleaned by first removing the cap, then the filter element, cleaning the parts and drying them with compressed air, and finally installing them in their original position. A fuel pump pressure test should be made any time the engine fails to perform satisfactorily at high speed. NEVER use liquid Neoprene on fuel line fittings. Always use Permatex when making fuel line connections. Permatex is available at almost all marine and hardware stores. Only one Johnson/Evinrude fuel pump may be rebuilt, see accompanying illustra- tion. All others pumps must be replace as a unit. For fuel pump service, see Chapter 4. 2-10 STARTER AND SOLENOID Starter Motor Test Check to be sure the battery has a 70— ampere rating and is fully charged. Would you believe, many starter motors are need- lessly disassembled, when the battery is actually the culprit. Lubricate the pinion gear and screw shaft with No. 10 oil. OIL HERE Starter Bendix drive mechanism. Good maintenance practices should include just a drop of 10—weight oil periodically to the area shown. - V 7 V ' rlvwnm Functional diagram of a typical cranking circuit. Connect one lead of a voltmeter to the positive terminal of the starter motor. Connect the other meter lead to a good ground on the engine. Check the battery voltage under load by turning the ignition switch to the START position and observing the voltmeter reading. If the reading is 9-1/2 volts or greater, and the starter motor fails to operate, re— pair or replace the starter motor. See Chapter 7. Solenoid Test An ohmmeter is the only instrument re- quired to effectively test a solenoid. Test the ohmmeter by connecting the red and black leads together. Adjust the pointer to the right side of the scale. On all Johnson/Evinrude engines the case of the solenoid does NOT provide a suitable ground to the engine. Hundreds of solenoids , POITVEI ‘ A $2? OHHMETER TEST LEADS Proper hook—up of an ohmmeter in preparation to testing a starter solenoid. INTERNAL WIRING 2— I l have been discarded because of the errone- ous belief the case is providing a ground and the unit should function when 12—volts is applied. Not $0! One terminal of the solenoid is connected to a 12-volt source. The other terminal is connected via a white wire to a cutout switch on top of the engine. This cutout switch provides a safety to break the ground to the solenoid in the event the engine starts at a high rpm. Therefore, the solenoid ground is made and broken by the cutout switch. NEVER connect the battery leads to the large terminals of the solenoid, or the test meter will be damaged. Connect each lead of the test meter to each of the large terminals on the solenoid. Using battery jumper leads, connect the positive lead from the positive terminal of the battery to the the small "S" terminal of the solenoid. Connect the negative lead to the the "I" terminal of the solenoid. Con- nect the other end of the jumper lead to the negative battery terminal. if the meter indicates continuity, the solenoid is service- able. If the meter fails to indicate continu— ity, the solenoid must be replaced. 2-11 INTERNAL WIRING HARNESS An internal wiring harness is only used on the larger horsepower engines covered in this manual. If the engine is equipped with a wiring harness, the following checks and test will apply. Check the internal wiring harness if problems have been encountered with any of the electrical components. Check for fray— ed or chafed insulation and/or loose connec- tions between wires and terminal connec- tions. Check the harness connector for signs of corrosion. If the harness shows any evi- dence of damage or corrosion, the problem must be corrected before proceeding with any harness testing. Convince yourself a good electrical con- nection is being made between the harness connector and the remote control harness. 2-12 WATER PUMP CHECK FIRST A GOOD WORD: The water pump MUST be in very good condition for the engine to deliver satisfactory service. The pump performs an extremely important function by supplying enough water to prop- erly cool the engine. Therefore, in most 2- l2 TUNING Wmuy.._w.& was. , FLUSH - ATTACHMENT v. , . ‘% xx... 's‘ ‘7 1‘ "\ Using a flush attachment with a garden hose hook- up to clean the engine water circulation system with fresh water. This arrangement may also be used while operating the engine at idle speeds to make adjust— ments. cases, it is advisable to replace the com- plete water pump assembly at least once a year, or anytime the lower unit is disassem- bled for service. Sometimes during adjustment procedu- res, it is necessary to run the engine with a flush device attached to the lower unit. NEVER operate the engine over 1000 rpm with a flush device attached, because the engine may "RUNAWAY" due to the no—load condition on the propeller. A "runaway" engine could be severely damaged. As the name implies, the flush device is primarily used to flush the engine after use in salt water or contaminated fresh water. Regular use of the flush device will prevent salt or silt deposits from accumulating in the water passageway. During and immedi- ately after flushing, keep the motor in an upright position until all of the water has drained from the drive shaft housing. This will prevent water from entering the power head by way of the drive shaft housing and the exhaust ports, during the flush. It will . TUBE 3 GUIDE , . , w g ' w : , W ’ M i; 6'. t Water pump installed on a 50 hp lower unit. also prevent residual water from being trap- ped in the drive shaft housing and other passageways. To test the water pump, the lower unit MUST be placed in a test tank or the boat moved into a body of water. The pump must now work to supply a volume to the engine. Lack of adequate water supply from the water pump thru the engine will cause any number of powerhead failures, such as stuck rings, scored cylinder walls, burned pistons, etc. 2—13 PROPELLER Check the propeller blades for nicks, cracks, or bent condition. If the propeller is damaged, the local, marine dealer can make repairs or send it out to a shop specializing in such work. Remove the cotter key, propeller nut, shear pin, and the propeller from the shaft. Check the propeller shaft seal to be sure it is not leaking. Check the area just forward of the seal to be sure a fish line is not wrapped around the shaft. When installing the propeller, ALWAYS use an OMC or approved seal compound on the propeller shaft splines to prevent the propeller from seizing onto the shaft. Example of a damaged propeller. This unit should have been replaced longbefore this amount of damage was sustained.
