Andersen Casement Window Operator Replacement
Please read all instructions before attempting to change your operator
How to change a window crank
The following article applies specifically to Andersen primed wood casement windows made by Andersen from 1932-
1989. The crank operators have changed over the years and the wood sills might be slightly different but the basics are
the same for changing all Andersen primed wood window crank operators.
Andersen primed wood casement 1988
1936-1974 Anderson primed wood casement used a straight arm operator with a metal base
1974-79 Andersen switched to a plastic snap on cover that did not have screw holes.
1979-1988, Plastic cover had 2 additional screw holes. The Anderson prime wood casement window has been
discontinued. However, most parts are available.
Note: Stain or painted windows may require cutting paint lines with razor knife to prevent damage to paint or stain on
surrounding wood surfaces.
Crank Open window
Start outside, under sill and gently raise
Start with cranking the window open.
Please be aware of the weather – blowing winds can catch the window sash and break your glass or worse.
From the outside - pry gently on the underside of sill cover. Most painted surfaces require using a sharp razor knife to cut
the paint or caulk lines. Score the surface area lightly to separate the sill cover from the sill.
If you can not tell where the two surfaces separate, apply a small about of pressure to the underside of sill cover and you
will see a small stress crack where the two meet.
Use a flat putty knife under the pry bar to prevent marring the wood.
Take your time – don’t hurry
use putty knife on interior surface to prevent marring wood.
Be sure and work the sill cover loose all the way across before trying to remove. The wood sill cover is thinner where it
covers the crank / operator. If you apply to much pressure at anytime, you risk the chance of damage or breaking sill
cover. The wood