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<p>21 February 2014 What is a Disrupt-a-thon? • Extended 2 week hack-a-thon • Exposure to key industry challenges • Access to industry mentors • No limit on solution space • Winners with game-changing ideas enter the seed accelerator Overview Who can participate? • Innovators across the globe – Participate in-person or online • Industry familiarity not a qualification • Apply skills and entrepreneurism to apparel challenges Overview A Few Tips • Build a team with diverse skills/backgrounds • Throw away assumptions. Observe, engage, and immerse yourself in the problem • Beginner‘s mindset: a ―new set of eyes‖ • Question everything • Reframe and define the problem • Brainstorm without a filter Overview Increase Operator Productivity Big Picture • Line balancing at start of shift contributes to a sizable loss in productive hours due to the delay in gathering absentee data • Find a solution to obtain absenteeism information in advance to the start of the shift and improve productivity by 50% in the first hour Challenge - 01 How the associates travel to work Challenge - 01 Zone C Zone B Zone A Productivity Loss in the first hour Date Productive Hours Efficiency Peak hour 1st hour Peak hour 1st hour 1-Nov 30 19 37% 22% 2-Nov 38 28 43% 30% 3-Nov 43 23 45% 26% 4-Nov 17 13 14% 10% 5-Nov 53 29 47% 25% 6-Nov 45 36 42% 33% 7-Nov 60 28 47% 36% 8-Nov 24 16 66% 38% 9-Nov 38 27 44% 31% 10-Nov 43 27 41% 29% 12-Nov 36 20 35% 15% 14-Nov 16 0 32% 0% 15-Nov 44 2 19% 1% Challenge - 01 Challenge and Key Constraints • Challenge – Reduce or eliminate efficiency loss by delays in line-balance activities in the first production hour • Key Constraints – Solutions such as a tag used for associate tracking must be very low in cost and robust (44,000 associates) – Solution must be simple and not require any major change in employee behavior – GPS and real-time vehicle based tracking reading devices need to be flexible and low cost – Not all employees use staff transport Challenge - 01 What has been done? • Active UHF RFID was identified as the most viable over NFC and barcode • Integrated GPS vehicle tracking system for employee geo fencing and real time vehicle tracking • GPS equipment to send real-time data using GSM data to the server • SMS or call-based checks and notifications for machine operators who don‘t use staff transport • Real-time information for automated line balancing with manual override Challenge - 01 Potential Impact of Innovation Increase production efficiency by 50% in the first hour Challenge - 01 Automate Customer Order Creation Objective • Eliminate current manual data entry and fully automate the entire customer order creation process – Customer order creation – Creating style and BOM – Operating process Challenge - 02 Challenge and Key Constraints • Challenge – Order details are sent by customers in different formats, at different time intervals using different data sources • Key Constraints – No control over the format or type of document – Not getting the full order details in one single instance – Inability to delay the procurement and manufacturing process till all order information is made available – ERP and planning system limitations, needing data in a structured format which is different to the customer purchase order data – Fast changing industry leading to continuous process and data entity changes Challenge - 02 What has been done? • Standardized format agreed internally to record all customer order details (Input Sheet) • Capture ‗Input Sheet‘ data electronically and initiate ERP integration process • Standardized internal workflow Challenge - 02 Technological Challenges and Limitations • Use of different formats require a configurable character recognition and an extracting mechanism in order to retrieve customer order data • Final order build-up is based on data gathered from multiple data sources such as: – In-line PDFs, Binary PDFs, images getting converted as PDFs, images embedded in .xls, emails, .xls, scanned documents • Customer purchase order details could span across multiple pages and the data could be in tabular or line format • Naming conventions and terminologies differ by the customer Challenge - 02 Potential Impact of Innovation • Productive use of merchant‘s time • Eliminate data entry errors • Cost reduction due to elimination of non- value added processes • Productisation of the solution • Ease of accommodating new customer or division Challenge - 02 Integrated Cup Solution Objective • Create a fully integrated cup solution – The 3D shape, support level, and outlook – Built-in wireless support technology – Required hand feel and appearance for inner & outer garment Challenge - 03 Traditional PU Bra Cup Construction Challenge - 03 Foam Outer lamination fabric Inner lamination fabric Additional liner stitched on for Light colours Contour molding of laminated foam Cup dressing, darted, seamed or molded 1 2 5 4 6 Shaping Support Comfort 3 Fabric foam lamination Trimmed cup Wire casing, inserting of wire and bar tack Evolution of PU Challenge - 03 1989 D ev e lo p m e n t PU foam – cut & sew Injection molded PU cups 1993 1995 2011 2014 Thermal molded PU cup – laminated non-graduated Thermal molded PU cup – laminated with push up (CAD/CAM) Challenge and Key Constraints • Make up cost – Complex process • Lamination, Cutting, Molding, Trimming, Sewing – Multiple components • Foam, Liner fabric (multiple), Glue, Wire casing, Bra wire – High wastage • Process constraints • Health hazards – Consumer • Poly Urethane • Wire – Manufacturer Challenge - 03 Current Technological Challenges • Commercial viability of investing in latest technology • No ―right‖ fit – different fit requirements across brands in the same market • Multiple dimensions to automate – 3D stitching, high SKUs • No scientific approach to define parameters Challenge - 03 Potential Impact of Innovation • Reduce cost - low standard minute value and fewer number of components • Reduce complexity of sourcing and procurement process : lead times and colour management • Introduce new cup finishes that cannot be achieved with current methods – Foil, Glitter, Prints • Product development – flexibility, speed and newness • Marketing potential to end customer - health, green/carbon footprint, wire-free, comfort, durability etc. Challenge - 03 Wash-free Clothing Challenge - 04 Imagine a world without dirty clothes Specific Challenge • Develop wash-free fabrics that do not attract dust, dirt, or get wet, are comfortable and durable to wear, and require minimal or no laundering to stay clean Challenge - 04 Current Technology • Self-maintaining clothes: stain resistant, wrinkle resistant, insect repellant, moisture repellant • Nanofabrication techniques for wrinkle and stain resistance (ex: Nano-Tex) • BUZZ OFF Insect Shield is an odorless, invisible insect repellant used to coat clothes. • Green-shield odor-fighting underwear kills bacteria with infrared rays • Superoleophobic coatings, which are coatings that do not allow oils, solvents, or chemicals to wet the surface. A scientist at Natick Soldier Research Center has used this technology to develop clothing for the U.S. Army. Challenge - 04 Limitations • Expensive • Limited range of products • Breathability Challenge - 04 100 Day Dress Shirt • A New York City startup is saying it can produce a men‘s button-down shirt from wool that‘s super-soft, doesn‘t need ironing and won‘t smell even after being worn for 100 days straight without washing Challenge - 04 Harvard SLIPS • Repels nearly any substance it touches: water, ice, oil, saltwater, wax, blood, and more • Outperformed currently available stain- resistant fabrics • Limited breathability Challenge - 04 Potential Impact of Innovation • Saves water • Clothes last longer • Consumers save time and money • Disrupts several industries : – Apparel – Washing machine – Detergent – Laundry Challenge - 04 Automated Trim Card Assembly • Eliminate manual trim card preparation and automate the creation process • Save time on bulk/sourcing merchandisers and optimize time to focus on more on value-added activities Objectives Challenge - 05 • Bulk merchant refers to the BOM in the input sheet and creates the trim card format • Trim card format is exported to a hard copy • Sourcing merchants provide raw material items for trim card creation • Bulk merchant creates the trim card • Trim card is dispatched to the factory Current Situation Challenge - 05 Analysis – (Time Study) No Action Time (Minute) 1 Open Input Sheet 1 2 Open Trim Card Format 0.2 3 Enter Details in to Trim Card Format by using Input Document 19.49 4 Print Trim Card 4 5 Paste Component – Fabric 13 6 Paste Component – Elastic 4.2 7 Paste Component – Thread 15.2 8 Paste Component – Label 2.11 9 Paste Component – Packing Trims 30 Total Time 89.2 Level of interruption during trim card preparation 20% Actual time consumption per head to create 3 trim cards 107.04 Challenge - 05 Summary • Total of 3 trim cards per style for a customer which consumes on average 107.04 minutes • A customer with 3 divisions will require on average 740 trim cards per season Challenge - 05 Analysis – (Quantity Study) Challenge - 05 Customer Div1 Div2 Div3 Season Count of Styles (Avg) Total Total Trim Cards (3 per Style) Total Time Taken per Head (Minutes) Total Time Taken per Head (Hours) Total Time Taken per Head (Days) Working Days per season (Avg) No of Merchants Percentage of a Days Work AU 102 81 93 276 828 29543 492 49 60 1 82% WI 71 63 89 223 669 23870 398 40 60 1 66% SP 85 61 83 229 687 24512 409 41 60 1 68% SU 91 79 85 255 765 27295 455 45 60 1 76% 349 284 350 983 2949 Analysis – (Quantity Study) Challenge - 05 Customer Div1 Div2 Div3 Season Count of Styles (Avg) Total Total Trim Cards (3 per Style) Total Time Taken per Head (Minutes) Total Time Taken per Head (Hours) Total Time Taken per Head (Days) Working Days per season (Avg) No of Merchants Percentage of a Days Work AU 102 81 93 276 828 29543 492 49 60 10 8% WI 71 63 89 223 669 23870 398 40 60 10 7% SP 85 61 83 229 687 24512 409 41 60 10 7% SU 91 79 85 255 765 27295 455 45 60 10 8% 349 284 350 983 2949 • Commercial viability of investing in high technology • Increased number of variations results in more complication – 740 trim cards per season • Multiple material qualities – Fabrics, threads, plastics, paper, rubber, etc. • Multiple colours Technological Challenges and Limitations Challenge - 05 • Productive use of merchandiser‘s time • Eliminate duplicate work • Cost reduction due to elimination of non- value added processes – Trim Card raw material transportation • Standardization and constancy across all buyer divisions Challenge - 05 Potential Impact of Innovation Eliminating Coloured Thread in Apparel Manufacturing • Eliminate different thread colours used in apparel manufacturing Objective Challenge - 06 • Numerous thread colours used • Underwear is sold mostly in pack form Challenge - 06 Current Situation • One machine uses more than one thread cone • Hence, in this industry: – Thread cones are ordered in many different colours – These are handled several times – There is a substantial amount of waste Challenge - 06 Current Situation Challenge - 06 Analysis – (Time Study) • Presently it takes 10 -15 min of thread changeover time • Opportunity to eliminate time wasted – Over Lock Machine : 8 -12 min – Flat lock Machine : 10 -13 min – Flat Seam Machine : 12-15 min – Lock Stitch Machine : 5-7 min Challenge - 06 • Minimum monthly 300,000, 3-packs • Thread changeover happens after every 500 pcs • Approximate number of changeovers: 1800 • Total hours: 300 Analysis – (Quantity Study) • Existing machine-base optimization • Customer quality requirements –Visual –Physical (Seam softness/comfort) –Testing requirements • Research and development capability Challenge – 06 Technological Challenges and Limitations • Reduce changeover time to zero • Reduce wastage by eliminating line minimums and minimum order quantities • Reduce thread consumption calculation • Process simplification in procurement, warehousing and operation will lead to cadre optimization Challenge - 06 Potential Impact of Innovation Eliminate Colour Issues in Fabric • Type of fabrics (weft knitted) – Cotton – Viscose – Modals – Polyester & blends • Types of dyes – Reactive – Disperse – Acid • Technology – Thies Eco soft / Air flow – dye machines and controllers – Arel – dye house control system – Data color – color measuring and color communication – Color service – automated dyes and chemical dispensing system Introduction Challenge - 07 • Pretreatment (scour/bleach) • Dyeing • Soaping • Final treatment Bulk Dyeing Process Challenge - 07 Average dyeing production(Kg/month) 870,000 %Total RFT 96.7% % Average Re-process 3.3% Re-process, 3.3% Total RFT 96.7% Off shade 2.6% Color shading 0.7% Challenge - 07 Problem Analysis Challenge - 07 Recipe issues, 36% Process issues, 22% Operator issues, 8% Machine issues, 6% Colour shading & unlevel , 28% Machine changes, 31% Stock code changes, 40% Liquor ratio changes, 29% Direct process changes, 19% Capacity changes, 12% Fabric tangle, 43% Non Identified issues, 26% Off shade 2.6% Colour shading 0.7% Cause and Action for Off Shade Challenge - 07 Cause Action 1 Input material variations (Greige, water, DCA) Greige - Dye ability checks, DCA - Calibration & strength checks Water – pH, Hardness, color checks. 2 Plan same color in different types of machines due to capacity constrains & demand fluctuations. Minimize machine changes through planning 3 Liquor ratio differences due to lot size (MOQ) variations Defined capacity guide line to planning 4 Inconsistency in dyeing parameters (SG, PH, Temp, pressure, water conditions etc.) Standardizing of each parameter for the color 5 Variation in process time Efficiency monitoring 6 Machine failures and breakdowns preventive maintenance , online inspection of machine functions 7 Human errors – dye & chemical measuring Computer assisted dye measuring system with bar code detection. Cause and Action for Color Shading Challenge - 07 Cause Action 1 Absorbency variation along the fabric – (pretreatment, material variations) Special pretreatment for critical colors . 2 Dissimilarity in size of the dye molecules Selection guide line to minimize difference in molecular size. 3 Deviations in Rope turn Round Time (RTR) Online monitoring with magnetic sensors. 4 Fabric entanglement in machine Proper synchronization of blower, winch & liquor pump settings 5 Machine failures - running, dosing, pressure fluctuations etc. preventive maintenance , online inspection of machine functions • Controlling massive number of variables like material quality, temperature, pressure, utilities, pH, SG, water quality etc. which are varying at the same time within very narrow margins • Predicting dye recipe from small scale dye trial to bulk with large no. of parameter differences • Difficulty in identifying exact root cause of the problem in certain instances • Identifying color shading at the dyeing stage Current Challenges and Limitations Challenge - 07 • Possible saving from reduction of reprocess – Current off shade percentage - 3.3% – Reprocess cost per 1kg -$ - 2.45 – Total reprocess cost per month -$ - 70,000 – Total cost saving by reduction of 1% $ - 21,000 • Other benefits – Can avoid Close marker / CPI cost/ numbering etc. – Can avoid capacity loss due reprocessing – Can avoid offers to narrow width – Can avoid yield loss due to reprocessing Potential Impact of Innovation Challenge - 07 Eliminate Width and Weight Inconsistency of Fabric Challenge - 08 Textile Manufacturing Process Map Total production (m) 32,832,256 %Total RFT 98.75% % Average Re-process 1.25% Problem Analysis Re process, 1.25% Total RFT, 98.75% Others 63% Narrow width/Width variation 22% High weight/Low weight 15% • Narrow width & width variation 22% • Weight variation 15% Challenge - 08 Problem Analysis 0% 10% 20% 30% 40% 50% 60% 70% 80% 90% 100% 0 10000 20000 30000 40000 50000 60000 70000 80000 90000 100000 Challenges on Width Variation • There is no tolerance for width. • Maintain zero width difference of the fabric while passing through 10 different processes and 10 different machineries. Challenge - 08 Cause & Action: Width Variation & Narrow Width Cause Action Tension variation at the wet to dry process Use weft straightener to control the tension variation Machine stoppages in the Stenter process Plan long runs with one quality or it’s versions Take down tension variation at the knitting machines Use mechanical and electronic take down tension devices of the knitting machines Abnormal running condition at the dyeing process (fabric entanglement) Synchronizing pump wheel and blower settings Human errors in the process Introduce auto-detect width measuring unit for each final finish and heat set machines Machine failures and breakdowns Preventive maintenance, online inspection of machine functions (Monthly Load cell calibration at the preventive maintenance) Challenge - 08 Potential Impact of innovation • Impact of re processing – Daily production - 100,000 m – Re process percentage - 1.25 – Avg. re process cost per 1m - $ 0.6 – Total loss per day - $ 750 – Total loss per Month - $ 22,500 – Total loss per year - $ 270,000 Challenges on Weight Variation • Knitting machine wise GSM difference. • GSM difference due to two end relaxation. • Additional process to recover the GSM difference. Challenge - 08 Cause and Action: Weight Variation Cause Action Take down tension variation in the knitting machine (CPI variations at the greige) Use mechanical and electronic take down tension controllers & Use automated CPI controllers for Heat-setting process. Stenter stoppages in the heat-setting process Pending – introduction of machine stop detector Tension issues while final finishing Use automated weft straightener(MAHLO tec.) to control the weight and tension at final finishing process Pressure difference of the compactor felt Use course counter to identify CPI variation at the compactor process. Pressure difference in the padder Set the alarm to identify the pressure drop and introduce zero open end pneumatic supply line. Challenge - 08 Impact of Innovation: Weight Variation • Impact of cutoffs due to GSM variation – Daily cutoffs avg. 59 Kg – Avg. cost per 1m $ 2.70 – Avg. CF 3.5 – Total length loss per month 6401.5 m – Total saving per month $ 17,284 – Total saving per year $ 207,409 Challenge - 08 Self-Powered, Washable Wearable Electronic Device Challenge – 09 Wearable tech today Challenge - 09 Wearable tech of the future Challenge - 09 What‘s stopping us? Challenge - 09 • Lack of comfort and ―wear- ability‖ • Batteries—weight and logistical cost • Not washable • Manufacturing costs Challenge Challenge - 9 • Develop a wearable device that powers itself by harnessing ambient energy • Seamlessly integrate textiles with electronic elements to create a garment that is both washable and wearable Current Status: Energy Harvesting Challenge - 09 • First fiber-optic solar cell. • Piezoelectric nanowire clothing can convert kinetic energy into electrical current Washable, Wearable Electronics Challenge - 09 • Seibersdorf Laboratories weaves NFC radio tag and antenna into garments in such a way that it can be washed. • A Korean research lab is developing textile battery structures to increase drapability and wash durability of smart textiles • Organic fiber transistors: compatible with textile manufacturing and contains no metals. • ‗Scrunchable and Washable Digital LED T- Shirt‘ Key Constraints Challenge - 09 • Manufacturing costs • Durability • Comfort • Reliability of self-powered device Potential Impact of Innovation Challenge - 09 • Reach true ―wearability‖ • Solve critical power needs • Enable the next generation of consumer electronics • Make wearable technology more wearer-friendly and commercially viable </p>
